Caiola’s

Of all the great brunches that I’ve featured in The Brunch report, my latest foray tipped the scales. And if there were any contest at all The Winner Is . . .Caiola’s. Perhaps it’s especially so with the kitchen being manned by its new sous chef, Matt Seitz, who took over Nick Ryder’s reign when he moved to Colorado late last year. Of course chef supreme and co-owner Abby Harmon still leads the team with her inimitable flair for flavor and texture in each dish.

I’m hesitant to proclaim one restaurant’s superiority over the other. Caiola’s, however, has consistently come up with different brunch specials every week, creating dishes that are novel and ultimately lip-smacking good, the sort of restorative food that you want for that first meal on a Sunday.

Brunch lineup: baked eggs with roasted tomatoes, ham and white bean stew; perfect bloody Mary and maple bacon added to the dish

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If lack of wherewithal stirs unhappiness, then the effulgence of Sunday brunch is a fine remedy. That and a glass of morning Sherry on the porch opens the door to countless revelries. Portland abounds with choices and as you’ve read here I’ve given my opinion on many places. But one that has slipped my sights is the East Ender.

The downstairs dining room and bar at East Ender

My only regret is that chefs and owners Karl Deuben and Bill Leavey traded in their Small Axe food truck for the brick and mortar route; theirs was, to date, the best of the lot as far as food truck cuisine goes in Portland.

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What prompted my Sunday morning excursion to the Market Basket in Biddeford was that all of Hannaford’s stores stopped carrying a product that I’ve purchased there for years. I immediately researched all of the likely stores that could conceivably carry it. No luck at Shaw’s, Walmart (even the supercenter), IGA Pond Cove Market in Cape Elizabeth and Smaha’s in South Portland.

Sunday morning at Market Basket in Biddeford

The Market Basket is the only store in Maine to carry the almighty, if not elusive, Benecol. It’s in the dairy case next to the butter and butter substitutes like Earth Balance and I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter and other locums of limited appeal. When I would do Google searches to find the product all that would come up was Beneful, the dog food!

Two types of Benecol at Biddeford Market Basket

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Whatever your reasons for Sunday brunch, one thing is for certain: it has to be good. Portland has boundless opportunities for the weekend brunch, but it still strikes me that the most reliably fabulous one is found at Caiola’s. Oh, yes, I’ve sung their praises often, but there’s something about their brunch specials that are truly amazing.

Pulled pork eggs Benedict

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As the city of Portland grapples with the boom of new housing on the peninsula, one dividend is food and dining venues emerge as an outgrowth. The opening of Rosemont Market at West End Place, for example, serves the densely populated West End and its need to have food shops in the neighborhood. As for dining, there’s only a few restaurants beyond Longfellow Square in the heart of the West End except for Caiola’s—still a long-time favorite for area locals—and Bonobo, the corner restaurant serving artisanal pizza.

In adjacent Bayside, that a place like Isa caught on so fast gives credence to an emergent neighborhood even though the grandness of Back Bay Grill a few doors away didn’t stem the tide when it entered this fringe environment decades ago. Plenty of vagrants and druggies still roam the streets, but now they co-mingle with ever more Mercedes and Lexus SUVs looking to park and dine at Isa or Back Bay.

The charming dining room at Isa

Isa and Back Bay are my neighborhood restaurants. Though I’ve yet to venture to Bubba’s Sulky Lounge or the notorious Ricky’s Tavern across the street. Now there’s a true dive bar whose patrons were once labeled euphemistically by a city official “…as subjects seeking social service assets and resources in that area.” Hipsters are not welcome.

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Neighborhood restaurants orbit in their own world. Warm, cozy and familiar they tend to eschew trendiness and other social hysterias. They’re everywhere around Greater Portland, for better or worse. But the most revered remain Caiola’s in the West End; Hot Suppa, Local 188 and others around Longfellow Square; Lolita, the Front Room and Blue Spoon on Munjoy Hill. These are some of the city’s standard bearers of dining in the hood. Now you can add Abilene to the group. Opened since June, it holds sway in the Woodford’s area. The difference is that this part of Portland doesn’t attract foodie preeners or make way for the next Central Provisions.

Caesar salad; the dining room at Abilene

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Cast-iron has always been in my arsenal of cookware with a few sizes at the ready in pots and pans. But over the years my collection has grown from two cast-iron pans to a large collection in all sizes for many different uses.

Classics in cast-iron cookery: roast chicken, cornbread, chops and potatoes

I’ve learned that what makes cast-iron skillets so integral is the sturdiness of the pan and the heat that it conducts so evenly for such dishes as cornbread, producing the inimitable outer crust, or for skillet pies. Drape pastry dough into a skillet and fill with apples, sugar and a few knobs of butter and it’s all you need for a great pie baked in cast-iron.

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October brought in the first fall weekend that seemed like classic autumn in Maine: puffy cumulus clouds hanging from bright blue skies; the farmers’ markets in full swing with squash, apples, Brussels sprouts and vibrant root vegetables looking as luscious as ever. Even what we eat and where we go to have it takes on the hues of seasonal change. I made my first meatloaf since last year. Sweaters were unpacked, socks covered ankles, jackets donned and a wool blazer worn in the evening. Even a stroll through Portland’s Saturday farmer’s market made me think I should have worn gloves since the brisk winds made the 48 degree temperature feel much colder.

Clockwise: cows grazing on pasture at Bisson’s Farm and butcher shop, Topsham; farmer’s market at Brunswick-Topsham Land Trust

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French toast made with corn bread? A new twist on eggs Benedict as though an old faithful really needs twisting and shaking? Sometimes it’s the tried and true that is the most satisfying. Then, again, when you experience a dish that’s truly novel that’s cause for culinary celebration, too.

I made the happy error of mixing up my brunch dates thinking that yesterday—Sunday—was the date for a brunch I was invited to. I looked up the email invitation and saw that it was for next Sunday.

Piccolo’s dining bar and wine rack

But I was all psyched for brunch without a destination. Though my favorite spots like Caiola’s or Sur-Lie beckoned I decided to go to someplace I’d not been to in a while.

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From the divine dining annals of Middle Street (Eventide, Duckfat, East Ender, et al) to the proprietors on the four corners of Longfellow Square, the legion of brunch buckaroos waiting on line to get into Portland’s trendiest eateries has spiraled to new highs. All that craving rush for variations on eggs Benedict or the latest take on tater tots define this culinary madness.

The hot spots, Local 188, Eventide, East Ender and Duckfat

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