If you haven’t been to Terlingua yet-the neighborhood restaurant that is the new anchor along a burgeoning restaurant strip in this desultory part of town-it’s time to join the crowds who already favor it as a congenial haunt for barbecue.
Along Washington Avenue, the Nissen building across the street will be housing a new restaurant; outdoor dining at Terlingua
I first wrote about it in June when it opened. I had the pork belly and shell-on shrimp and liked both. The pork was cooked just right with its fatty layer of skin rendered crisp and sweet with honey. And the guajillo chili sauce that cloaked the shrimp had a nice winey favor typical of the guajillo. The shrimp were good, though most likely flash frozen and thawed. It’s nearly impossible to get fresh caught Gulf shrimp in Maine.
Terlingua is essentially barbecue but not the usual kind in which northern cooks try to mimic Down South pit masters. The food has also been described as Latin. But the closest it gets to it is more Tex-Mex border food.
