When I first came to Portland a friend guided me through the Deering Oaks Portland Farmer’s Market pointing out (in his opinion) the best vendors to visit. He was quite emphatic: only go here for greens, there for vegetables and so on.

Years later I admit that I have my favorite farmers for specific vegetables, greens and meats, but typically I stroll through the whole market, walking up and down looking at who’s got what and compare prices before I decide where to make purchases. If I see a display of peppers, for instance, that are the brightest and firmest I make a mental note of that vendor and return to buy them. During berry season, though, the choice is easy. I usually go to Alewive’s Brook Farm because his strawberries are not sprayed and he’s the only vendor who cultivates sparkles berries, a very sweet variety, though fragile.

At this time of year, one month before the Portland market goes indoors, the summer crops are a memory. No more feeling up the tomatoes, or stripping back the shucks of corn to peek inside. But there’s plenty of potatoes-not so new as in June but still rich and delicious; cabbages are best growing more intensely flavored in cooler growing conditions’ and it’s high season for celeriac and great to put in stock and with other roots in a puree.

Squash is everywhere in great variety but I’ll wait until winter when ground crops are otherwise in short supply.

Here’s a partial list of my favorite fall crops and the farmers who have, in my opinion, the best varieties and products.

Sweet potatoes. They’re relatively new in our markets, and more and more farmers are growing them. Sweets need warm growing conditions, something that’s not always achievable in Maine. But quality has improved greatly. Jan Goranson of Goranson Farm boasted about her potatoes being the sweetest. I bought them and she was absolutely right. I roasted them until very soft and the skins just burst a little, scooped out the flesh and mashed them with copious amounts of butter and heavy cream. A little salt and pepper and it’s a simply fine dish.

Pumpkins. They’re everywhere in the markets now in all shapes and sizes. I was on the lookout, however, for long-pie pumpkins, which are the best for pie. Only one vendor, Freedom Farm, had them on Saturday. Buy them now; keep in a cool place and they’ll be fine for Thanksgiving pumpkin pie. One large one should produce a hefty cup of pie filling.

Potatoes. The variety known as Pinto were sold at the market this summer by South Paw Farm. They’re in short supply but they found a potato bag of them and brought them to Saturday’s market. They’ll be around for a while longer. They are yellow fleshed and creamy.

Dairy. You may never go back to store-bought sour cream once you try Balfour Farm’s cultured cream, which is sour cream as we know it. Also Balfour’s cultured buttermilk is the best; it lasts for months and gets really thick. Always shake it well before using.

Bread. A recent discovery is the bread from Good Shepherd’s Farm (Bremen), especially a loaf called Aunt Selma’s Sourdough. I was curious about it because I had an Aunt Selma, my mother’s eccentric sister. Well, this loaf is very tame, rich, incredible texture and flavor. I’m addicted to it now.

Eggs. We have many vendors who sell excellent eggs. But my favorite for a long time has been Alewive’s. His chickens are free roaming and eat whatever they want. I mentioned to him that his last batch of eggs held yolks that were intensely orange. He told me the chickens must have been eating shrimp shells or pumpkin. Imagine! Anyway, $5 per dozen present great value for terrific eggs.

Preserves. I’ve been buying the hot pepper jam made by Mike Farwell’s wife of Uncle’s Farm. It’s simply the best. Just hot enough and nicely sweet, it’s a perfect condiment on any roast of lamb, pork or poultry

Yogurt. The best Greek style yogurt is from Swallowtail Farm. It’s so good and rich you can spoon it out to eat like candy. I use it with granola, on pancakes, with fresh berries and in baking.

After shopping at the Portland Saturday market I usually go up to Brunswick to stop at the farmer’s market there (prices are somewhat cheaper) but also to visit Bisson’s Farm and Butcher Shop in Topsham. The beef is from their cows that graze on the field across the road; the beef is not labeled as grass fed since they’re finished off on grain. But it’s also half the price of grass fed.

One of the best cuts that they sell is the sirloin roast. It’s generally in the meat case cut as a 1-inch thick top sirloin steak; but I get it custom cut at 3 to 4 inches thick to prepare as a roast in the oven or the grill. At $7.99 it’s incredible value and a fabulous piece of meat. And while you’re there pick up a quart of their raw heavy cream (incredibly thick and rich and only $6) and a pound block of freshly churned butter.