October 2016

The last time I reviewed Solo Italiano was back in  May when it first opened, and I was very impressed and wrote at the time that the food had an incredible lightness of being, each dish displaying fine subtleties of preparation and flavor.  Yet until then all of the other restaurants that operated prior to Solo’s tenancy at 100 Commercial St failed as if felled by the Curse of Tutankhamen, dying inexplicably even when they were critically acclaimed. But Solo Italiano’s co-owner and chef, Paolo Laboa (along with star Portland fish purveyor Angelo  Ciocca), who hails from Genoa and has cooked on both coasts in America for over 10 years, is firmly in command  of his kitchen, creating Italian fare–mostly locally sourced–that is literally an unleashing of culinary finery.  And after my two recent dinners last week I was left with this impression: Solo Italiano has the qualities of style and cuisine like the white-clothed dining citadels in Rome, where haute Italian fare is at its finest.

The three dining area: rear dining room, the great circular bar area and the side dining room facing the crudo station are  intimate and comfortable

The three dining area: rear dining room, the great circular bar area and the side dining room facing the crudo station are intimate and comfortable

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Based on the French classic gratin dauphinois, creamed–aka scalloped–potatoes are a classic dish to serve alongside roasts of any stripe. My favorite is with lamb.  The French method is basically to cook the potatoes in milk and/or cream and layered into a buttered gratin dish that’s rubbed with a cut clove of garlic.  The potatoes and most of the milk mixture are spooned into the gratin with a generous amount of salt, pepper and a trace of nutmeg.  It’s then coated with  Gruyere or Emmenthaler and baked until the potatoes are soft and the top has browned nicely. For this method I cut the potatoes 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick.

Scalloped potatoes

Scalloped potatoes

The American version is simply scalloped potatoes.  Here they’re sliced fairly thin and layered into an enameled cast-iron gratin dish or better yet into a cast-iron pan—or any other vehicle that can be put on the stove top before baking.  When the dish is done it tastes as if it’s loaded with cheese but it’s not.   The milk and cream absorb the starch from the potatoes and the whole thickens up beautifully.  The potatoes should be cut fairly thin, though not paper thin as a mandolin would cut.  I use the food processor slicing blade, preferably one that can be adjusted to cut the potatoes somewhat thinner than the standard slicing blade, or a bit less than 1/4-inch thick.

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The Harvest on the Harbor festival began anew this year, with its two new principles in charge, Stefanie Manning, the marketing and circulation manager at the Portland Press Herald (and whose husband is Tom Manning, owner of The Miss Portland Diner) and Gabrielle Garofalo, a New York City media consultant who owns Gabrielle Garofalo Inc. Consulting & Creative Energy.  These two have changed it all around.  For better or worse?  Were the crowds as robust as before when the Convention and Visitor’s Bureau ran the show all these years?  In fact, it was run very well.

Sustainable Seafood Dinner at O'Maine Studios

Sustainable Seafood Dinner at O’Maine Studios

What was notably different were several events that bit the dust.  The fabulous Buñuel-esque style feast that had played in prior years on the stage of Merrill Auditorium was replaced by a barn-style dinner in the cavernous space of O’ Maine Studios where a dinner of sustainable seafood was the centerpiece.

Crowds piling in, Lobster Tasting at 58 Fore St.

Crowds piling in, Lobster Tasting at 58 Fore St.

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Few restaurants in Portland have achieved the level of luxury and style shown by Tempo Dulu, a dazzlingly beautiful dining establishment housed in the equally glamorous Danforth Inn.  That and the level of cuisine offered is unparalleled in its unique presentation of Southeast Asian cuisine.

Notables from Maine's media and food big wigs assembled in the great hall at the Danforth Inn

Notables from Maine’s media and food tribes assembled in the great hall at the Danforth Inn

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If you’re thinking of the Big Roast, consider a rib end of pork on the bone. Most butchers offer these as boneless roasts, but on the bone renders more flavorful meat.    When I was at Bisson’s Meat Market in Topsham recently, I asked the butcher for a pork roast on the bone.  He then suggested that I get the rib end.  The reason being that it’s a fattier cut that’s very juicy and tender.  The loin cut tends to be dry.

Pork ready for roasting with potatoes and carrots, moistened lightly with olive oil to roast along with meat; stir occasionally in pan juices to keep moist

Pork ready for roasting with potatoes and carrots, moistened lightly with olive oil to roast along with meat; stir vegetables occasionally in pan juices to keep moist

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What’s increasingly making Portland a worldly source of provocative dining and a contender to maintain its foodie-nation status is the diversity of what there is to eat and where to find it whether dining in or dining out.  It comes up in the most ordinary places from vendors at a farmers market to a soup swap in a barn in Yarmouth to a fine meal on Munjoy Hill to a French-bistro inspired dinner in the Old Port. It makes the food lore of the daily meal so delicious.

Crystal Springs Farmers Market

Crystal Springs Farmers Market

While Portland has one of the biggest farmers markets in terms of number of vendors, Brunswick beats the odds with its contribution of buying local because it has market days 3 times a week: On the Green in downtown Brunswick on Tuesdays and Fridays and  on Saturday down the road at Crystal Springs on Pleasant Hill Road.

Brunswick's On the Green market

Brunswick’s On the Green market

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From the road, Stone’s Café and Bakery looks like one of those tumble-down joints where you’d least expect to get a good meal much less a sweet slice of pie or cake.  Yet on my first visit there nearly 15 years ago, its charms were immediate.   Then again I’m an easy mark for family-style diner fare that’s well prepared as heartily old-fashioned as Mother Goose and pretty cheap too.  I would go there regularly for breakfast or lunch, even though it’s a  20-minute drive from Portland.  At breakfast, the sausage gravy over biscuits, the corned beef hash, blueberry pancakes, great home fries and wonderful biscuits made it worth the trek. And when they had their special Saturday night dinners we’d all pile in and stuff ourselves silly with prime rib, pot roast, lasagna, fried fish or whatever the cook’s fancy was that night.  That was pre-2006 when it was known as Stone’s Grove Café and owned by the Mason family for many years.  Before that it was owned by the Sweetsirs (“Fran’s”), another local family.  It’s been around like forever! But beyond its ownership succession this was the quintessential neighborhood constant where families grew up on those wonderfully wholesome meals.

The modest building that houses Stone's Cafe and Bakery

The modest building that houses Stone’s Cafe and Bakery

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Recently the New York Times ran what was deemed a ground-breaking food story on the modernization of chicken pot pie (link).  Theirs was a so-called contemporary version “ditching the gummy white filling and frozen vegetables.”

If I encountered such a chicken pot pie it would have been served at an old Howard Johnson’s or out of a box of Banquet brand of frozen chicken pot pie. But the denigration of the old-school formula seemed a bit of a stretch.  If all the elements are made well, without the use of processed ingredients or gummy sauces, the classic chicken pot pie is eminently delicious

And if you ever had it at my house, you’d encounter a wonderful pie under a dome of a very special cream pastry dough similar to puff pastry and a filling that’s in a light cream sauce made from chicken stock whisked into the standard roux and further enriched with heavy cream.  Gummy? Not a chance.

Chicken pot pie

Chicken pot pie

As for the frozen vegetables I admit to frozen peas.  But these are one of the few vegetables that survive flash freezing.  They taste nearly as fresh as right out of the shell. As for the typical pile of frozen pearl onions, forget it.  If I want those in my chicken pot pie I buy them fresh and take the few minutes to prepare them.

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The fall and early winter markets are every bit as satisfying as the summer markets with different, deeper colored vegetables taking center stage. An example of this was at the Fairwinds Farm stand at Saturday’s Crystal Springs market in Brunswick. When I remarked to one of the farmers how beautiful the huge, leafy cabbages were that they had on display, she said, “Wait till those winter cabbages start coming to market– they’re wonderful.” I chose the cabbage because of the huge outside leaves.  Perfect, I thought, to make stuffed cabbage later in the week. But those winter cabbages are truly delicious, with the colder weather intensifying their peppery taste.

Beautiful cabbages at Fairwinds Farm

Beautiful cabbages at Fairwinds Farm

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Initially, the discreet charms of the Drifters Wife—so highly touted in media reports –eluded me on my first visit for dinner last week.  Still, I sensed that the food could be very good, enticed by such starters as potatoes in mackerel aioli or mustard greens in lemon and clothbound cheddar.  That and chef Ben Jackson is nothing less than a miracle worker to be able to produce such sophisticated dishes â la minute in a miniscule kitchen:  To wit–two induction burners barely bigger than a YMCA-room hot plate and a mini convection oven, which chef Jackson admitted to me is not all that satisfying to use.  And that’s the rub.  I’d love to experience what this chef could do in a proper kitchen.  Still, what’s there is a tapestry of exotic small plates (a few brilliantly devised) unlike the more complex, broader dishes created by small-plate citadels Sur-Lie, Lolita or Central Provisions.

Drifters Wife, Washington Avenue, Portland

Drifters Wife, Washington Avenue, Portland

The menu is not large, but I’m thrilled that I chose the radicchio salad as a starter. Jackson dresses these bitter leaves with an earthy, sweet bacon vinaigrette  that was wholly satisfying (more on this later).

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