August 2021

The last time I prepared a spatchcocked chicken was with one already cut up perfectly  The chicken was from Commonwealth Farm, in Unity, Maine.  They sell their  chickens at the Camden Farmer’s Market, which I visited a few weeks ago. It’s a great market, very old-fashioned  with a good mix of vendors).  Now,  don’t confuse Commonwealth Farm chickens with Commonwealth Poultry Farm in Gardiner, whose chickens are widely available in Portland; the latter are not.  They are not one and the same.  The latter is the son of the owners of Commonwealth Farm.  He gets his chickens far and wide and processes them in Maine.  They are a good,  fine choice.  But if you’re after authenticity and local,   Commonwealth are raised and butchered at their farm in Unity and they’re wonderful chickens, with the usual provenance, organic and pastured. They have great chicken flavor and very meat breasts and legs.

Sorghum glazed spatchcocked chicken

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Places like Cafe Louis make a traditionalist like me wonder if the classic 3-course meal will become a dark shadow of the past. Think Back Bay Grill where for a $108 prix fixe 3-course menu one can dine beautifully with civility at every turn; it’s where tables and location matter (everyone wants that corner table, which I think is called #7) or any other spot along its banquettes and large round tables.

Sharables and small plates have been with us forever now,  but I miss the single first course like a velvety soup starter or a main course like rack of lamb with two side vegetables such as potato gratin and mousseline of peas and a finale-worthy dessert.

Cafe Louis is a Costa Rican  Caribbean  style dining hangout offering such classics as carne asada and patacones (fried plantains); these two dishes, among others, were beautifully presented but not without inherent  faults. But my biggest gripe about dining there on a particularly humid, hot evening was the riveting noise level over the sound system.  Besides huddling in some very close quarters  in stifling heat, the percussive beat of the music playing rivaled the blare of 21 trombones.  I was also a bit befuddled at the closeness of the tables while Delta rages all around us like an insipid fog.  This place definitely speaks to the requirement that all restaurants should mandate that you show either a fully vaxxed card or recent Covid test.  Who knows?  The dowdy couple sitting next to us in their Sunday best might have been raging carriers.

Crab ceviche

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