February 2020

If there’s one cookbook on baking that should be in your library it’s “Midwest Made,” a collection of classic recipes attributed to the Midwestern food culture described as “Big, Bold Baking from the Heartland” by Shauna Sever.

I’ve made over 10 recipes in the book from pound cakes, pies, bar cookies and the one featured here, peanut butter cookies, which are the best I’ve ever had.

I reread the recipe several times because the cookie dough had no flour whatsoever.  Instead it called for a few tablespoons of cornstarch and only four tablespoons of melted butter.

After I was sure that there wasn’t, a mistake in the recipe I carried on.  It’s all peanut butter based, with 2 cups of creamy peanut butter; the author recommends Skippy (I used Jif) saying that more rarefied, natural peanut butters won’t work as well.

The stiff dough is made easily enough in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Its few ingredients include the cornstarch, vanilla extract, sugar, melted butter and 2 eggs (“refrigerator cold”).  Because you don’t have to wait for butter to soften or room temperature eggs, the dough is quickly assembled.

Once it’s all mixed you take out about ¼ cup of dough, roll into a ball and then roll in sugar.  Placed on baking sheets, the dough is then pressed down using an old-fashioned potato masher, which produces that little nobs that decorate the cookies.

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At first, I thought that Wilson County Barbecue was going to set the new standard for BBQ in Portland.  After several visits I’m not convinced yet.   I wanted it to be like they reinvented fish chowder or the lobster roll or at the very least be an homage to southern barbecue transplanted in the Maine tundra.  But rather the big difference from our few other barbecue places is its authenticity:  the co-owner/manager, Spencer Brantley,  is a real southerner , bringing North Caroline barbecue techniques –even the pork ribs  and other cuts hail from the well-known, highly respected Joyce Farms in Winston-Salem North Carolina. That they’ve teamed up with Ri-Ra for financing and developer Ted West who owns the building in West Bayside is another story and one that I’m not going to address here.

On my first visit for lunch I was bowled over by the great fried chicken sandwich.  This is what we should be getting at Popeye’s or Chick Fil A.  Tender breast meat is brined in pickle juice, bathed in buttermilk and then dredged in a seasoned flour mix and deep fried in their state-of-the-art compression deep fryers.

The roll held up through most of the sandwich and the mayo dressing,  and housemade pickled added to the heft.  The slaw accompaniment was another winner: vinegar-based–as is most North Carolina BBQ cooking– with cabbage chopped into tiny bits still crisp.  I left thinking: Wow this is good.

A few weeks later I made it to dinner having been invited by friends to join.

A local food writer had—a southerner—said that the hush puppies were the real deal.  The night we were there (about 5:30-6:00) they were sold out.  As the ordering progressed, a lot of items on the menu were unavailable including mashed potatoes with gravy and their high, dense buttermilk biscuits.

Communal tables; restaurant during lunch, much quieter

Southern food writer and cookbook author Ronni Lundi talks about the best hushpuppies are made with cornmeal, buttermilk, chives and sweet onion.  I can’t say what Wilson County’s are like.  One of these days I’ll go sit at the bar   to order up a batch.

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