March 2018

The onions are chopped and then put through a grinder extracting the onion juice, the liquid of which is used in making the bagel instead of water and the remaining onion shreds are dehydrated, and the bagel gets coated with their pungency.  The onion extraction gives these bagels intense onion flavor.

Onion bagels at Rose Foods

That’s the art of the onion bagel as explained to me by Kevin Gravito, the bagel baker  at Rose Foods. He also said they’re more labor intensive to make than other bagels.

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Veal parm is one of the hallmarks in Italian-American cooking, and some restaurant chefs do a fair job of putting it together while others merely go through the motions.  At the new Roma (aka Roma Café), chef Anders Tallberg has it down just right.  It doesn’t sit in an overflowing pool of marinara or rendered limp plastered with gooey mozzarella.

What you get is a breaded veal cutlet—pan fried until crisp– that remains intact and crunchy by the time it is plated.  And the very fine marinara tastes homemade, which it is.  That and a judicious sheath of melted mozzarella creates a dish that is thoroughly pleasing; Served with quickly sauteed local spinach and a judicious helping of spaghetti the whole doesn’t leave you stuffed beyond repair.

Beautifully done veal parm with spaghetti and sauteed spinach

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