April 2021

Note: the above photo in the intro page is not the restaurant written about here but rather  North 43 Bistro pre-pandemic

Pausing for now to wax terrific or horrified over a dine-in meal at a local Portland restaurant remains subject to the vagaries of the pandemic.  To criticize a restaurant for any reason (bad food, one of them)  would not be fair; our restaurants are struggling to keep their doors open and don’t need the unkind words of a reviewer. Dining out–inside–is still limited, but Portlanders can get their fill of a fine meal by other methods that have taken hold during this Covid era: order out or dine outside in all weather conditions.

Some restaurants have weathered the dining-out debacle well in their alternative approaches: Chaval and EVO have designed great independent spaces for dining-out inside their huts, igloos, et al; EVO has in fact installed a state of the art air filtration system to be able to have a dine-in option as well.

But what do you do when you’ve spent good money to dine out, when there are still many restaurants not offering dine-in options; those that do are fully booked in their limited capacities. These make-shift inside-a-darkened-“outdoor” space posing as a dining room  can’t afford to serve an awful meal.  Send the food back?  I would have but this particular menu offered so little else that I’d want to eat.  To call the list strange was understatement. What must the chef be thinking?  Weird cuisine  should never  be a stand-in for good cooking.

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The Times cooking app is ubiquitous.  Everywhere you click you can come across  recipes from it. I see friends’ postings on Facebook extolling their wonderfulness as easy-peasy splendor.  But they’re not all created equal.  And I’ve prepared many a NYTimes Cooking  recipe that fostered these two reactions: “Not worth the bother,” and “nothing to write home about” –and the sheet pan dinners.  Please put a hold on these for a while.

There are a few that have been wonderful, mostly baking recipes, which I favor. My least favorite are the pasta recipes.  But I’m not an ardent pasta fan.

On the “like a lot said side” is a butter cookie that must be made with cultured salted butter; they’re terrific.  And the best feature is the Saved Recipe  section where you can get to them readily by typing in the search bar the recipe name or category.  One that I had made long while back was the the famous pound cake from Detroit.

Otis Lee’s Detroit Pound Cake, NYT

Some work out beautifully and others are complete failures.  I don’t know what happened to the line editing process at the Times because some recipes are not edited for clarity, as though line or  copy editors were let go.

Sliced cheesecake

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I never thought it would happen but I’m really fed up with cooking at home.  Even though I’m thoroughly vaxxed, I’m still hesitant to dine-in at restaurants regularly.  Yet I really don’t like take-out food unless it’s a carton of Chinese food or a box filled with pizza.  I recently went so low and bought some frozen supermarket entrees to avoid cooking and cleaning up after.  Dreadful!!!

Rao’s lasagna and spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna on the left

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Burgers (beef or lamb), fried fish, fried chicken and the best fries are some of the highlights of Thoroughfare on Main Street in Yarmouth so aptly named as Yarmouth Main Street is thoroughly  a thoroughfare of eateries and shops.

The smash burger and fries with the best little packet of Heinz ketchup

Maybe this should be perceived as both a fry-joint and burger joint.  More to the point, this is a cunning alternative to running a full-scale restaurant–one that was brilliantly conceived with extraordinary food pre-pandemic at the Garrison by chef and caterer Christian Hayes. The fast but fabulous fare at  Thoroughfare helps pay the bills for this enterprising chef to offer his talents on the most efficient food group known to man: the burger joint.

There’s no indoor dining. Not yet but one day soon.    And on the chilly rainy day last week I ventured on the 15 mile trip from Portland to Yarmouth.  I could have ordered my lunch online,  but there was only a 15 minute window from order to pick up so I decided to take my chances at the walk-up window.  After all this is in downtown Yarmouth Village–how bustling could it be?

The store front; order window is at far left

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