January 2019

If there’s one dish that you should make this winter it’s the classic chicken and dumplings, the epitome of comfort food. It’s a stew-like soup, with a thick stock base filled with big chunks of cooked chicken, carrots, peas and the beautiful pillowy dumplings. It makes for a lovely family style supper.  Some biscuits or corn bread wouldn’t hurt and you can go all the way and have a big slice of cake for dessert. I happened to have a rum-flavored pound cake on my cake stand.  Everyone was fully sated.

Chicken and Dumplings

There are two ways to make the dish.  The traditional way is to boil a chicken in the usual way, with plenty of aromatics to produce a flavorful poaching liquid, with the boiled chicken meat nice and tender falling off the bone.

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Weekend cooking should begin with a classic bagel sandwich for morning.  Pictured here is an everything bagel from the Purple House Bakery whose Montreal style bagels are superb.  With a schmear of cream cheese topped with a fried egg , local tomato slices and smoked Nova from Acme Smoke House in Brooklyn (Harbor Fish carries it), the weekend food spree  at home  has begun.

Purple House Bakery bagel with Acme Nova, cream cheese, tomatoes and fried egg

But fine-dining eating-out fatigue can inflict pain occasionally.  It’s one reason why I’m cooking more at home than going out to eat.  But there was an exception a while back when we finally got a table at Union at the haute-hipster Press Hotel.  Union is one of those under-hyped restaurants when it shouldn’t be because chef Joshua Berry is a terrific cook.  His larder is chock full of locally sourced ingredients that he utilizes in creative takes on American bistro cooking.

Consider a starter course like the charcuterie board of house-cured meats such as jambon de maison, house smoked beef brisket and braised pork rillettes; or tempeh bathed in a glistening sweet-salty hoisin glaze; or an ingenious dish of sprouting cauliflower with house made lamb bacon and cloth bound cheddar or his take on southern fried buttermilk chicken with pickled cauliflower and spoonbread timbale.

I would have done a formal review of the restaurant, but on the night we were there I  didn’t intend to.

My photos were haphazard and couldn’t’ report faithfully on the many dishes we tried since I wasn’t taking notes. Suffice it to say, you should go before summer arrives and becomes packed with visitors.  Even now advance planning is advised to get a reservation.

Top, clockwise: Union dining room, charcuterie board,fried chicken, sprouting cauliflower and tempeh-hoisin

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