April 2018

Briefly Noted: Three Thumbs Up for Sichuan Kitchen in Portland

April 28, 2018 / / Restaurants

It’s been several weeks since my last visit to Sichuan Kitchen.  And what an impression it  has left on me, still thinking of the great dishes  enjoyed there. Compared to  visits when the restaurant opened last year, the food has seriously improved. Now the flavorings are more distinct: flowery, spicy-hot from Sichuan peppers, garlic, chili, ginger and star anise.

The plain but comfy dining room

Here’s what we had: Sautéed local scallops (from Lubec) served over stir-fried baby bok choy with ginger and garlic.This was a sensuous dish with the briny flavor of the scallops under their scrim of spices.  The braised pork ribs—big, meaty and very tender–  were an extraordinary dish swathed in a flowery cumin sauce. The Sichuan version of kung pao chicken called gong bao chicken here is less sweet than Empire Chinese’s Cantonese preparation.

Gong bao chicken

Both are good, though Sichuan’s is more on the savory side in a rich sauce, spicy-sweet-salty flavor profile.

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Sunday Brunch: Lusting After Potato Latkes at Rose Foods

April 9, 2018 / / Restaurants

There might be a war of words to explain the difference between potato pancakes and potato latkes.  For the record they are essentially  the same, the latter being the conventional term for this delicacy of Jewish cooking that are traditionally served during Hanukah. Prompted by a Facebook post a while ago by one of Portland’s leading food writers who claimed, in so many words, that she couldn’t get enough of the latkes made at Rose Foods, I decided it was time to try them.

Rose Roods” potato latkes

They’re only available on weekends, and this past weekend they were my brunch meal.  You can have them plain with sides of applesauce (homemade?) and sour cream or dress them up with caviar or smoked salmon.

I opted for the plain version.  Any more than that would have meant nearly $20 for a plate of three potato latkes with the $8 surcharge to include either topping.

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Black Cow: The Metamorphosis of an Architecturally Significant Space Into a Burger, Soda Shop and Cocktail Lounge–And It Works!

April 7, 2018 / / Restaurants

Following the long run of Sonny’s as a popular watering hole and fine dining Mecca for Latin fusion fare, restauranteur and chef Jay Villani decided it was time to change and has given us Black Cow in its place where it still commands the prominent crossroad of Tommy’s Park, Exchange and Middle streets in the heart of the Old Port.

You’re meant to order at the front desk and go to your table or at the bar you can order there with the waiter/bartender

Basically, the Black Cow is a burger and fries-centric eatery with a sidecar of housemade sodas (to wit: egg creams)—all as a backdrop for the still popular bar serving well-made cocktails.   The after- five crowd summarily packs the place for drinks.  But now they can stay for a burger and fries and other stuff to cap off a relatively inexpensive evening out.  (Drinks are $10 to $12 for their craft cocktails.

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