March 2019

Sook’s Cookbook is one of the most unusual cookbooks around.  I found it on Amazon.  It’s written by Marie Rudisil, who is author Truman Capote’s aunt.  Sook was the matriarch of the Faulk Family whose collection of recipes were legendary among her Alabama peers.  Capote’s favorite recipe from her was for lemon meringue pie.  I’m making that tonight.

It’s an endlessly charming collection, describing various family member recipes through the ages, especially from the black maids and cooks from the slavery era to more contemporary times.  These women created black Southern cuisine as we know it today.

I recently prepared the Roast Chicken, based on Scriptural Precepts described in the book.  It’s basically a roast chicken put on a bed of vegetables and bathed in nearly 2 sticks of butter.  I brined the chicken first, which gave the bird wonderful flavor and moistness as brines do.  I used Erin French’s basic brine (found in her cookbook, “Lost Kitchen.”) It’s flavored with juniper berries, which have become hard to find.  In the past I’ve had no problem, but a recent search in Whole Foods and  Hannaford yielded nothing.  But keep a jar in stock—however you find it—because they add wonderful flavor to brines and other preparations.

I don’t generally buy farm birds because they’re so expensive and often not worth the premium price just because of their exalted heritage.  The breast meat is not plentiful on these birds and they get so much exercise free-roaming around yard that they work off the fat that less rigorously raised birds contain.

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As soon as we walked in, that unmistakable sweet smell of success wafted through the room on this Restaurant Week night when Sur-Lie was seriously aglow with diners looking very pleased to be there.

We chose Sur Lie as our one pick from the restaurant week roster because most on the list had been visited frequently before; others like Lio (not on the list) I hope to return to again after a lackluster first visit. Some of the newer restaurants in town were not represented.

I’ve always liked Sur-Lie, and its prix fixe menu at $35 was a 4-course affair with lots of tantalizing dishes. From the regular menu my favorite is the sweet-pea humus, which wasn’t offered on the special prix fixe.

Center: salmon; top, clockwise: the bar, black-eyed peas, oysters, empanadas

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I first saw it in the freezer at Pat’s Meat Market where stacks of boxes were piled high with the brand Slab clearly showing.  It turned out to be Slab’s very popular pizza now available in stores. It’s not in Hannaford or Shaw’s (certainly not there) but is available at Pat’s, A&C Grocery and Micucci’s. At $12 for a 12-inch pie, it’s less expensive than ordering in from any of our pizza emporiums for takeout.

This is a plain pie: no toppings, just tomato sauce and mozzarella, with chef Stephen Lanzalotta’s signature pie in good stead: the sweet tomato sauce and gratings of mozzarella, just enough to make the pie glisten and gooey good.

Slab’s pie

After  first bite I thought, finally a plain pizza without all those egregious toppings, just the purely unadulterated Sicilian stretch of pizza dough and topping.

The crust is sensational: crispy, toothsome goodness.  Oddly the pie is not in slab form but rather a 12-inch round.  I assumed it would be in slab form as it is at the restaurant, though round pies are available there too. When you slice it the piece holds firm, no sagging in the middle.

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