April 2019

I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying two cookbooks recently purchased that have delivered very well indeed.  The first, “Double Awesome Chinese Food” by Andrew, Irene and Margaret Li, are the three family chefs who own and cook at Boston’s Mei Mei restaurant.  The food is what food impresario Andrew Zimmern deems the  “true new American-Chinese.”

And that’s it in a nutshell.  Call it fusion American -Chinese cooking if you must.  But it’s the sauces and techniques that make it distinctive.  The recipes are easy, though as in all types of Asian cooking, prep work is a bit daunting, all the chopping and dicing should be done carefully before assembling the ingredients to cook.

You don’t need special equipment, not even a wok (though in some of the recipes it’s helpful to use one).  Sharpen your knives, however, for the prep work is not necessarily the work of a food processor.

Go to any of our Asian stores to stock up on the ingredients.  I’ve purchased everything from the Hong Kong Market, which is one of my favorite markets of all of them in Portland.

You’ll need a pantry of toasted sesame oil, soy sauce, fish sauce, black vinegar, fermented black beans. Chili oil, hoisin sauce, sesame paste or tahini, Shaoxing wine and various Chinese seasons such as Sichuan peppercorns.

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Is there a town in America whose pancakes are world-famous?  The short answer is no.  Yet the national chain, International House of Pancakes (aka IHOP), has institutionalized this breakfast and brunch staple nationwide, and in my local report on pancakes I thought I should experience how flapjacks from a chain pancake house stack up against local hot spots.

I ordered the buttermilk blueberry pancakes.  I asked the waitress if the blueberries used were Maine berries.  She said yes. I should have asked whether they were wild Maine blueberries.  They were not.  They were as large as mini-mothballs, with a striking resemblance in taste.

The conclusion is these pancakes were classically mediocre–doughy, floury and rough tasting.  What’s more, a knife and fork was needed to cut them apart.  The two big blobs of butter that topped the pancakes tasted like butter facsimiles as was the array of pancake syrup on the table: classic, strawberry, pecan and blueberry.  Real maple syrup is available for a $1.99 surcharge.  The classic syrup was nothing more that high fructose corn syrup with traces of maple flavoring and coloring.  I tried the blueberry syrup, too, which had a medicinal taste.

Filled with high-bush blueberries, choice of syrups

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This wonderful cake comes close to being the cake or your dreams, a fine textured confection that’s a cross between a pound cake and a light sponge cake.  The batter is rich with butter and egg yolks, enriched with apricot nectar, lemon zest and whipped whites that give it such a light texture.

It’s one of those old recipes that I came across years ago, down-home baking at its best.  Its key ingredient, apricot nectar, is not easily found in stores, most of what’s available being too diluted with water or mixed with other fruit purees.

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