And by that I don’t mean the venerable food shop, Rosemont Market, which has anchored this neighborhood for years with its array of mostly locally sourced foods. But rather it’s across the road on Woodford Street. In my one and only visit thus far to The Knotted Apron several weeks ago we thoroughly enjoyed our dinner because the food was so thoughtfully and artfully prepared and served in a true neighborhood bistro setting. Think of it being like a counterpart to the West End’s Chaval, a mainstay of the West End or The Blue Spoon on Munjoy Hill. That every neighborhood in Portland or neighborhoods in general from York Village to Union Village should have such a locally inspirational place.
The Knotted has been around since the the Pandemic and while many newish restaurants in Portland tend to have a sameness about them, The Knotted Apron remains clearly identifiable and has avoided the predictability of being throttled by the so-called New American dining category. Instead think of it as savvy neighborhood place serving delicious food.
It remains low key and its patrons like it that way. The Knotted Apron is not likely to get onto those all-seeing magazine lists of the best fine dining in Portland, though it could certainly qualify. That is, will, for instance, Bon Appetit one day descend on The Knotted in a swirl of superlatives? Who knows? I’d rather it didn’t. Leave it alone as a special place for locals.
Start off with the house-made focaccia. It’s so light and fluffy as though you’re biting into the finest iteration of bread. It’s served with very good fruity olive oil and balsamic. We finished off the loaf easily, a portion that could have fed a table of four.
My dinner mate ordered a mixed salad that had everything that a distinctive salad can have. On a bed of mixed greens were slices of pear, goat cheese and candied walnuts. I ordered the chicken liver mouse; as a starter, it was a huge portion that could easily been shared by two. I didn’t have any problems devouring the entire serving, a finely textured and well seasoned helping adorned with chanterelles, pickled mustard seeds and scooped up with anadama bread.
For a main course I enjoyed the fine flavors of a confit of roast duck leg with black lentils; my dinner mate loved his house-made raviolis stuffed with local lobster meat.
Dessert choices are simple and the selection changes frequently. We shared a generous serving of a rich slab of lemon chiffon cake with macerated strawberries and ginger ice cream, a thoroughly unique pairing of sweet elements that you should grab if it’s on the menu again. The two or three dessert choices changes often as do the entrée choices.
Everything from the kitchen is house-made from the puff pastry to the ice cream to the bread and everything else in between, under the nimble, experienced hands of chef and owner Ryan Hickman. The space itself presents several dining areas: the vast dining bar that is practically an extension of the open kitchen and the side dining room separated from the bar by a wall (which perhaps should be taken down to open up the space altogether), but remains an intimate space in which to dine comfortably. And while good weather is still with, the outdoor patio is a beautiful spot to dine, too.
And at about $65 per person, including drinks, tax and tip, it’s one of the most reasonably priced restaurants in Portland for fine dining.
The Knotted Apron, 496 Woodford St., Portland, ME 207-805-1523 www.knottedapron.com
Rating: Creative fare done very well, an American bistro with European style
Service: Very attentive
Seating: Comfortable in dining room or bar area and a great outdoor dining patio
Parking: A few onsite spaces otherwise street parking
Noise level: Very manageable, no one yells above a whisper from well spaced tables
Price: Very reasonable