Baking & Desserts

I bumped into one of Portland’s star chefs the other day at Harbor Fish.  I was there to pick up haddock fillets to bake under a dome of buttered bread and cracker crumbs.  The chef was looking at the gutted trout, which he said were terrific, local trout farmed in Caribou.  He bought the whole fish, which he would bake with herbs.

As we were standing at the checkout counter, I felt compelled to tell him about a dessert I made comprised of canned  pie filling and topped with the contents of one of those prepared cake mixes. “Oh, yes,” he said.  “My mother used to make that quite often.  Delicious. It has a crispy top,” he said as though remembering this homespun dessert from childhood.”

I admit I felt somewhat naughtily guilty using a processed food ingredient such as the packaged cake mix and canned pie filling.  I hardly ever use any food that is not farm fresh or or locally derived, much less processed.

I came across the recipe in a cookbook called “At My Grandmother’s Table, Heartwarming Stories and Cherished Recipes from the South“ by Faye Porter.

It sounded so good. How bad can it be I considered before deciding to make it?  It was quick and easy to prepare without messing up the kitchen.  I make a fresh-baked dessert almost every night. It’s a pleasurable effort.

The recipe, Easy Layered Cobbler, called for canned apple or cherry pie filling, a can of crushed pineapple and 9 ounces of butter-cake mix with 1 stick of melted butter drizzled over the top.

Fresh out of the oven the cherry pie version of the Easy Layered Cobbler was delicious

Read more…

If there’s one cookbook on baking that should be in your library it’s “Midwest Made,” a collection of classic recipes attributed to the Midwestern food culture described as “Big, Bold Baking from the Heartland” by Shauna Sever.

I’ve made over 10 recipes in the book from pound cakes, pies, bar cookies and the one featured here, peanut butter cookies, which are the best I’ve ever had.

I reread the recipe several times because the cookie dough had no flour whatsoever.  Instead it called for a few tablespoons of cornstarch and only four tablespoons of melted butter.

After I was sure that there wasn’t, a mistake in the recipe I carried on.  It’s all peanut butter based, with 2 cups of creamy peanut butter; the author recommends Skippy (I used Jif) saying that more rarefied, natural peanut butters won’t work as well.

The stiff dough is made easily enough in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Its few ingredients include the cornstarch, vanilla extract, sugar, melted butter and 2 eggs (“refrigerator cold”).  Because you don’t have to wait for butter to soften or room temperature eggs, the dough is quickly assembled.

Once it’s all mixed you take out about ¼ cup of dough, roll into a ball and then roll in sugar.  Placed on baking sheets, the dough is then pressed down using an old-fashioned potato masher, which produces that little nobs that decorate the cookies.

Read more…

After the traditional holiday menu of standing rib roast and all of its usual accompaniments, the idea of coconut custard pie appealed to me as the dessert after a very savory menu.  Perhaps it’s a mistake to call it coconut custard because the filling does not contain milk to produce a silken custard but rather it’s just eggs, a lot of sugar, a lot of melted butter and vanilla extract poured over sweetened coconut flakes that line the bottom of the prebaked pie shell.

Coconut pie

Read more…

I have mixed feelings about not preparing the Thanksgiving meal at home this year. On that day I’ll be joining a party at a private club for the noontime repast.  And on Saturday, I’m invited to attend an after- Thanksgiving dinner at a friend’s house.  I’m still considering getting a small local turkey (if one still exists) to prepare at my leisure sometime after the feasting days without the angina of going through all the motions to effect the perfect holiday meal.

But I’m not off Scott-free.  For the Saturday dinner I’ve offered to make the desserts, which will include 3 pies, a cake and if I have any heavy cream left from a few quarts in the fridge (there’s a shortage of it in our markets at this writing) I’ll make ice cream.  This, I’ve deemed, is far more difficult than preparing a turkey and all the usual fixings.

Apple Pie with lard crust

Read more…

When Recipes from a Very Small Island by Linda and Martha Greenlaw was first published in 2005, I went to a local bookshop in Portland that specialized in cookbooks to seek it out.  I didn’t find it and asked if they had the book.

“Oh, no,” the owner responded haughtily, “we don’t carry  books like that,” as though it had the vapors.

Of course the book was everywhere else, what with the celebrity of Linda Greenlaw, an Isle au Haut Lobster woman who wrote such other best-selling books as The Hungry Ocean, The Lobster Chronicles and All Fisherman Are Liars.  The cookbook written with her mother exemplified simple home cooking based on what’s sourced from the local waters and fields.

Some of my favorite recipes in the book are Mama’s Baked Beans, Simon’s Lemon Tart, Swordfish with Two Mustards, Gulf of Maine Haddock Casserole and another that I always meant to make but hadn’t until last week, Maxine Wright’s Apple Cobbler.

When you look at the ingredients list of cinnamon, sugar, apples and a biscuit batter that covers the cobbler you think what’s so special about this?

Read more…

A recipe in the New York Times Magazine last week (see link) featured a fresh strawberry pie recipe from famed cookbook author Dorie Greenspan.  It was a reminiscence of the best strawberry pie she had in Paris years ago.  She recreated it in her recipe.

It certainly sounded great.  But the more I studied the recipe before trying it myself, I had several issues with her method.  (Am I being presumptuous to question such a baking expert?).  What bothered me was the method employed in the dough recipe.  It called for processing it in the usual way in a food processor, giving it many pulses to nearly pulverize the flour, sugar and butter into a grainy mass.  The only liquid was one egg yolk beaten with a half-teaspoon of vanilla extract.

Impossible, I thought.  It will never come together.  I followed the recipe up until squeezing the dough gruel until it came together.  This would never happen. And if it did, I think I’d wind up with a dough terribly difficult to roll out, much less retain its shape after baking in the tart mold.  I thought it would fall apart when slicing it.

This pie won’t last long. You can’t stop slicing it!

Read more…

Summer produce is struggling to get to market as our cool spring and early summer continues, impeding the arrival of the full spectrum of Maine grown fruits and vegetables.  Rhubarb made a strong showing about a month ago and strawberries, its vital partner, are here at last.  The cool weather made the crop a little late by a week or two, but their flavor is intense.

I prefer to keep this duo separate.  While I like strawberry-rhubarb pie I tend to make separate uses of these two, the latter is a vegetable technically but is used like a fruit in desserts.  And strawberries should be left unadulterated.  The next time you have the urge to make a strawberry rhubarb pie, increase the berries to use alone and omit the rhubarb; make a double crust pie (crumb topping is good too) in the usual way.  For a thickener I like to use tapioca flour, a cleaner way to set fruits in a pie.

But for me it’s the fresh strawberry pie that is really the winner.  There are two methods that I offer here.  The most common form is to puree the strawberries to cook them in a sugar, cornstarch and water bath until thickened to pour over hulled uncooked berries arranged in a bake pie shell.  The last time I did this I used a cookie crust instead of pastry dough.  I sometimes prefer this because I don’t like chilling pies housing a pastry case; chilling ruins the flakiness of a dough.  The cookie crust (use crushed shortbread, vanilla wafers or tea biscuits mixed with a bit of sugar and plenty of melted butter and baked until firm) survives much better.  For a recipe for this pie see Fresh Strawberry Pie recipe link.

Fresh Strawberry Pie

Read more…

According to Marjorie Standish, the one-time doyenne of Maine cooking as food columnist for the Maine Sunday Telegram for 25 years, I was intrigued by her proclamation in her 1973 book “Keep Cooking—The Maine Way”—that she had the absolute original recipe for the famous Toll House Chocolate Chip cookie, which she included in her book. She wrote:

“These cookies were originated at the celebrated Toll House in Whitman, Massachusetts by Ruth Wakefield…

“Although you will find the recipe for these cookies on the package of chocolate bits, stating that it’s the original recipe, it is not this recipe.  This is the one that was printed on a long-ago package and is the original recipe —really.”

Fresh out of the oven, allow these to cool for a few minutes in the pan before removing to a wrack to cool completely

I immediately set out to make these cookies.  The recipe wasn’t too different from the one I knew.  I’ve always made the Toll House recipe found on the back of the 6-ounce package of Nestle’s chocolate chips (today they’re called morsels). The larger package yielded more cookies than I wanted for a quick batch of cookies.

Read more…

I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying two cookbooks recently purchased that have delivered very well indeed.  The first, “Double Awesome Chinese Food” by Andrew, Irene and Margaret Li, are the three family chefs who own and cook at Boston’s Mei Mei restaurant.  The food is what food impresario Andrew Zimmern deems the  “true new American-Chinese.”

And that’s it in a nutshell.  Call it fusion American -Chinese cooking if you must.  But it’s the sauces and techniques that make it distinctive.  The recipes are easy, though as in all types of Asian cooking, prep work is a bit daunting, all the chopping and dicing should be done carefully before assembling the ingredients to cook.

You don’t need special equipment, not even a wok (though in some of the recipes it’s helpful to use one).  Sharpen your knives, however, for the prep work is not necessarily the work of a food processor.

Go to any of our Asian stores to stock up on the ingredients.  I’ve purchased everything from the Hong Kong Market, which is one of my favorite markets of all of them in Portland.

You’ll need a pantry of toasted sesame oil, soy sauce, fish sauce, black vinegar, fermented black beans. Chili oil, hoisin sauce, sesame paste or tahini, Shaoxing wine and various Chinese seasons such as Sichuan peppercorns.

Read more…

This wonderful cake comes close to being the cake or your dreams, a fine textured confection that’s a cross between a pound cake and a light sponge cake.  The batter is rich with butter and egg yolks, enriched with apricot nectar, lemon zest and whipped whites that give it such a light texture.

It’s one of those old recipes that I came across years ago, down-home baking at its best.  Its key ingredient, apricot nectar, is not easily found in stores, most of what’s available being too diluted with water or mixed with other fruit purees.

Read more…