Bao Bao

It’s been several weeks since I’ve  cooked at home. The  reason is that I had to deal with packing up my kitchen for my move to a new apartment. That fateful, monumental event took place about a week ago.  My new apartment is still filled with unpacked cartons (there were originally 80 cartons of books, dishes and bric a brac of every type such as piles of placemats and napkins that I forgot I had). In my new kitchen I have lots of drawers and cabinets and am slowly filling them.  One notable mishap was that I couldn’t find the carton that contained all my spices.  From peppercorns to exotic blends, even vanilla extract  and my homemade baking powder  were  all missing.  And then  yesterday I finally found them in a carton marked “Fragile Glassware.”  Indeed.

So like so many in Portland I’ve resorted to take out before and during  Covid quarantine.

In general, my biggest gripe is the navigability of the  restaurant websites. Many are hosted by Upserve, which  can be finicky.  And heaven help us if you want to feed yourself on Mondays to Wednesdays since most of the kitchens limit  take out to Thursday through Sunday. There are some exceptions, of course.  And I fully understand that restaurants are operating on lean budgets and staff.  I think Damian Sansonetti and Illma   Lopez of Chaval are virtually solo in their kitchen,  and keeping up with diner-out demand is difficult. Monte’s, too, for his great Roman style pizza works from a skelton kitchen staff but plans to be open 6 days a week in June.

Pine Ridge Acres Farm with cases filled with fresh and frozen meat, dairy and eggs; canned good made at the farm as well

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Sichuan Kitchen eschews the high-style interiors of other highly regarded Asian restaurants in town such as Empire Chinese Kitchen, Miyake Restaurants and Bao Bao. Even with their exalted interiors, the latter also provide authentic Asian cooking. Whereas Sichuan Kitchen remains low key, even as a plain Jane dining abode without the hyperbolic elements that the others provide.  But once you dig in, that’s when it takes off—into thoroughly exotic territory with Sichuan spices, pickled vegetables and sauces   exceeding the umami norm.

This was one of my favorite dishes, sliced beef in chili sauce

When you walk into Sichuan Kitchen what you see is a randomly plain dining room, comfortable without making a statement and you notice that the diners at their tables are not there for the usual visual show of “dining out” but are instead deep into the food that they’re eating.  It’s not terribly noisy there because mouths are chewing rather than chatting smartly. It reminds me of New York’s new wave of Szechuan restaurants that populated the Upper West Side in the 1970s, surpassing the Cantonese meccas of the city’s Chinatown.  Chinese cooking was finally evolving then beyond the column menus of egg foo young and sweet and sour pork.  The cooking of China’s regional fare was making a big play then and we’ve never looked back except in backwaters like Portland where it took a few decades to get beyond chopped suey houses.

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Masa Miyake tried the izakaya concept—the Japanese version of a gastro pub—formerly at his tiny aerie on Spring Street, which is now the Home Catering take out and sandwich shop. It closed shop a few years ago.   But Portland newcomer, Chef Thomas Takashi Cooke, and his wife, Elaine Alden, are exploring similar opportunities here to open his restaurant, Izakaya Minato.  On Tuesday evening, he held a pop up at Bao Bao showing off his  menu.

He hails from San Francisco where he was head chef of that city’s highly regarded Tsunami.  He and his wife Elaine moved to Portland recently.

Quite a crowd convened at Bao Bao to sample Cooke's fine Asian fusion menu

Quite a crowd convened at Bao Bao to sample Cooke’s fine Asian fusion menu

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The Sunday dinner menu at Bao Bao was not, as I thought, a more varied affair with bigger multi-course offerings going beyond the restaurant’s signature dumplings.  I was, I admit, wrong to assume otherwise since nowhere on its website did it give that impression. Yet differentiating it from its regular menu as “Sunday dinner” implied a broader range of dishes.

It didn’t.  And our table of four, however, was hardly disappointed with what we ate, though we all expected it to be, well, fuller.

The dining room and bar at Bao Bao

The dining room and bar at Bao Bao

Chef Cara Stadler’s Bao Bao is a dumpling house in the strictest sense. (Interestingly the kitchen does not prepare—as the restaurant’s name suggests—the typical Chinese buns known as cha sui bao or pork buns; yet “bao” literally means wrapped treasure and not necessarily referring to buns.)

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