Bisson’s

The price of butter is out of whack.  Some brands cost over $7 per pound, which is 50 percent  more than last year when the average price was about $3.50 per pound at our area supermarkets like Hannaford’s,  Shaw’s, Whole Foods (for store brand) and Market Basket, the latter offering the best price deals for these sticks of gold.  Incidentally Shaw’s is one of the most expensive sources for butter, just under the average  whopping price at Whole Food’s butter aisle.  For example, Vermont Creamery butter half-pound package costs over $6  at Whole Foods whereas Walmart sells it for $2.98 for  8 ounces,   and picking it up at Shaw’s would set you back $3.99. Hannaford and Market Basket don’t carry Vermont Creamery butter.

 

Cabot butter at Market Basket, a relative

Currently Cabot Butter and Land O Lakes are well over $5 per pound, about $2 more than  six months ago, Cabot is generally less expensive than LOL.  The reason for butter price bloat manufacturers claim is that milk production is more costly than ever,  and labor shortages are to blame too.  I don’t necessarily buy this excuse. Still, I guess it’s a fact of life.  Why, for example, is Kate’s Butter, which is made locally from their own cows who graze on Maine’s farm fields,  way above its price from a year ago?

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I never thought it would happen but I’m really fed up with cooking at home.  Even though I’m thoroughly vaxxed, I’m still hesitant to dine-in at restaurants regularly.  Yet I really don’t like take-out food unless it’s a carton of Chinese food or a box filled with pizza.  I recently went so low and bought some frozen supermarket entrees to avoid cooking and cleaning up after.  Dreadful!!!

Rao’s lasagna and spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna on the left

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Fresh Approach has been a fixture on Brackett Street in the West End for years. Basically a neighborhood superette, the rustic-looking  shop  makes hearty breakfast sandwiches, burgers hot off the grill made with their highly prized beef mix that’s ground fresh every day; then there are the prepared meals in take-out boxes in a cooler case filled with homespun meals  made in the market’s kitchen behind the deli counter. Of course, they’re known for their Italians and other sandwiches, too, where locals pile in at lunchtime.

A fixture on Brackett St

But the main event has always been the butcher shop that’s housed in the back of the store.  Their ground beef has been the source of great hamburgers that were made at Ruski’s  and elsewhere pre-pandemic.  And what a great convenience if you live in the neighborhood and can get everything you need for dinner without having to go to a supermarket. The vegetable case is filled with all the basics and the grocery items include all  the essentials.  They even have Aunt Jemima pancake mix.

It’s basically an old-fashioned neighborhood market with a strong local following

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If you’re looking for a big, bold cake to serve at holiday dinners or just to keep on the counter in a domed cake stand, swiping a slice every time you see it because it’s so good, then this majestic rave of sweetness is for you.

Chocolate pound cake right out of the oven

Chocolate pound cake right out of the oven

Basically it’s a chocolate pound cake baked in a Bundt or tube pan.  But what sets this cake apart is its texture, the epitome of silken-downy goodness.  It’s achieved by this great baking method:  When creaming the butter and sugar, and after blending in the eggs, once combined you then set your stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment to beat on medium-high speed for 6 to 10 minutes until the texture is like the thickest mayonnaise or very stiffly beaten whipped cream.  The flour and milk are then blended in gently so as not to overwork the flour, which would toughen the cake.

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There’s no secret formula to preparing corned beef except this one caveat: buy the best.  Unless you’re going to cure your own slab of brisket into a “corned” beef, buy from the expert butchers who do it up every year.

I could have gone to any one of the purveyors who brine their own beef like Pat’s Meat Market, Rosemont, The Farm Stand and Bisson’s ( 116 Meadow Rd., Topsham, 207-725-7215).  Whole Foods also has several brands of commercial grade corned beef, and if you’re bent on paying up for it you might as well get it there at a few dollars more per pound.  The cured brisket from Bisson’s was $6.99 per pound.

Since this is a work in progress, here is the corned beef (from Bisson's) that I will make tomorrow

Since this is a work in progress, here is the uncooked corned beef (from Bisson’s) that I will make tomorrow

Since I was at Bisson’s last Saturday I picked up my cured beef there, which comes straight from their brining barrels.  It’s available throughout the year well wrapped and ready in their meat case next to the bacon, hams and other smoked cuts of meat.

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The success rate of recipes from newspaper food sections, magazines and the internet don’t have a high success rate of enjoyment or deliciousness. Still, I clip many from the New York Times, which are generally reliable and occasionally keepers. Though I’m rarely seduced by recipes in our Portland Press Herald food page, which is more of a food section containing wire copy recipes than those that are home grown.  But I do look forward to the Saturday food section of the Wall Street Journal in the section called “Off-Duty,”which features articles on food, lifestyle, travel, cars and fashion.  It’s the food features especially that tantalize–and one recipe in particular that I have made was so good it’s become a firm family favorite.  (The overall section, however, is more like a fantasy sheet advising where to buy six-figure cars to items of clothing and accessories that cost thousands.)

The adapted recipe  is a robust preparation for country style pork ribs that are marinated in a spice rub overnight and slow-roasted in the oven for several hours.  It hails from chef Damon Menapace of the Philadelphia restaurant Kensington Quarters.  The restaurant is part of a butcher shop that practices whole animal butchery from local farms.  The adjacent restaurant is highly regarded by Philadelphians.  Click here for the link to the food feature.

Slow roasted spice rubbed ribs served with a puree of celery root and potato and sauteed spinach

Slow roasted spice rubbed ribs served with a puree of celery root and potato and sauteed spinach

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If you choose wisely, there’s a wealth of information on the internet for the home cook searching for recipes or ideas.  I refer to it all the time.  Several of my favorite sites include Food 52, Chef Steps and Serious Eats.  Their recipes are fully tested to be virtually foolproof, and at Chef Steps they offer instructional videos that are extremely helpful.

One that caught my attention recently was the recipe for beef stew from Serious Eats. It turned out to be the essence of heartiness, a perfect beef stew.   Several components, however, of the dish are unusual—certainly different from the typical methods used for this simple preparation.

All-American Beef Stew adapted from Serious Eats

All-American Beef Stew adapted from Serious Eats

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Classic macaroni and cheese (not mac & cheese, please), Ritz crackers, Lowry seasoned salt, cube steak, Campbell’s cream of mushroom soup, these and many more are the dishes and main ingredients that I’ve re-introduced to my repertoire of simple home cooking.  They were the standard bearers in American kitchens in the last half of the prior century before we became enlightened to cook local without using processed foods.

Classics from yesteryear still easily found today: Ritz crackers, Lowry salt, Campbell's soup and butcher's cut cube steak

Classics from yesteryear still easily found today: Ritz crackers, Lowry salt, Campbell’s soup and butcher’s cut cube steak

But if you look at regional cookbooks focusing on country cooking you encounter lots of calls for canned soup popularized by Campbell’s or cracker crumbs of all kinds mostly Keebler saltines or Ritz crackers that fill meatloaf mixtures and handy-dandy casseroles.  While I haven’t thrown out my whisk to whip up classic sauces, I’ll use those canned soups occasionally as the base for a hearty casserole.   There’s a baked haddock dish, for instance, that I make with Campbell’s cream of shrimp soup mixed with milk or cream, topped with Cheddar and crushed Ritz or saltine crackers moistened with melted butter.  It’s delicious.  Could I prepare a version of the soup from scratch?  Of course, after hours spent making it.

It’s a dichotomy, I know, for someone such as myself who makes his own ice cream rather than buying store bought. I don’t even use canned stocks.  Even in a pinch since I always have the homemade brew on hand either in my freezer or easily assemble the few ingredients (wings and aromatics) for a quick stock that’s ready in less than an hour.

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In the great wide world of comfort food, classic meatloaf is most everyone’s favorite dish.  Of course one’s idea of what constitutes the perfect recipe is open to interpretation.  I’m always on the lookout for tasty if not different takes on the dish. My mother, who was rarely inspired in the kitchen, was determined to make great meatloaf.  She dried every kind that came along.  One misguided attempt was made with bread soaked in milk and added to the beef mixture; the loaf was baked in an early version of a tabletop rotisserie.  It was awful! As a family we went out to eat often.

Classic meatloaf in tomato glaze

Classic meatloaf in tomato glaze

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Cast-iron has always been in my arsenal of cookware with a few sizes at the ready in pots and pans.  But over the years my collection has grown from two cast-iron pans to a large collection in all sizes for many different uses.

Classics in cast-iron cookery: roast chicken, cornbread, chops and potatoes

Classics in cast-iron cookery: roast chicken, cornbread, chops and potatoes

I’ve learned that what makes cast-iron skillets so integral is the sturdiness of the pan and the heat that it conducts so evenly for such dishes as cornbread, producing the inimitable outer crust, or for skillet pies.  Drape pastry dough into a skillet and fill with apples, sugar and a few knobs of butter and it’s all you need for a great pie baked in cast-iron.

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