Cumberland Food Company

Out of the farm fields and farm shops in Cumberland Center is a growing list of purveyors who are integral to Maine’s food lore.  My list includes Pine Ridge Acres  farm store, Spring Brook Farm and Cumberland Food Company. The latter has now become a destination for dining-in for dinner known as Dara Bistro.

Their “Story” best describes the change:

“Dara Bistro, formerly named the Cumberland Food Company, started on January 1’st, 2017 by Chef Bryan Dame and myself, Kelsey Pettengill.   We serve as a community meeting space in the form of a casual neighborhood Coffeeshop by morning, and then as a more formal dinner service space at night.  Located at 371 Tuttle Rd, the building dates back to the late 1800’s and was originally utilized as a jersey cow dairy farm.  It has gone through a handful of transitions over the years, most recently when it was remodeled into a restaurant space and run as Doc’s cafe until 2017 When we leased the space and made it our own!”

Several comfortable dining areas including the open kitchen and service counter

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I’d like nothing better than to go to a restaurant–the only face covering being my beard–to settle into the simple pleasures of indoor dining.

Recently I asked a friend where we should go out to eat ( inside).  Her response listed these restaurants for indoor dining: “Tuscan Table (it’s so large), Royal River Grill House, Boone’s, Scales, Fore Street, etc.”   It ran the gamut of choices, leaving out some. I suggested Chaval because they  offer   wonderful garden seating behind the restaurant.  Last Friday night I was not able to secure a spot outside  but reserved a table inside, requesting the big round one at the window, far enough away from other diners. By 8 PM we were finished and only a few tables in the main dining room were occupied. But there was a steady stream of take out orders being picked up at the front door and the garden dining area was humming.  Indeed Chaval has taken every precaution to abide by the city’s inside dining rules. Without the  buzz of a packed restaurant, the atmosphere was subdued.

The dining room and entry at Chaval; Sole stuffed with clams in a spinach puree; ice cream roll

Bar or counter dining is basically minimal at most restaurants.  I’ve even been to  Moody’s and Becky’s where counter seating–once a mainstay–is off limits. Scales and Fore Street have devised plexiglass shields between seats for twosomes  at the bar.  If there’s a silver lining the kitchens are less stressed than they would be with crowded dining rooms and the food is more carefully prepared.

But for now I’m still enjoying  eating in the open air.  And if there’s a water view, all the better.  I’ve yet to go hunker down  under the bunker-walled enclaves on Middle Street–as though those fortifications that mark many outdoor dining rooms were devised to prevent runaway Mack trucks from plowing  diners down.

The Middle Street restaurant row is the most popular in the city.  Though the mass of diners seems too close for comfort.

I limit my dining out options to lunch, preferably either on the water or overlooking it. Having a table on a busy street is not appealing after sunset. One in particular whose food I like a lot is on such a busy corner and is smack dab in the path of a blinding setting sun.  Sunset is earlier now (6:30 ish).  Will restaurants be installing lighting when the sun sets by the late afternoon?

Top: The bar and halibut in meyer lemon sauce at Fore Street; Bottom: The patio at Scales and tuna

 

Solo Italiano taking reservations and setting up for the evening’s roster of outdoor dining

Here is a short list of what I like.  I know, I know.  There are other spots, but …

My three favorites at lunchtime  include  the patio at the Cumberland Food Company, in the heart of Cumberland Center’s farm country; Mr. Tuna along the Eastern Prom and EVO-X at Fore Points Marina at the end of Thames Street.

The patio at Cumberland Food Company–a day in the country!

Chef/owner Bryan Dame has quite a following at both breakfast and lunch.  Most recently I had a grilled chicken sandwich served on  homemade focaccia.  The lightly grilled chicken breast was melt-in- your- mouth tender, but it was the bread that was the star–bursting in flavor, with a texture that was both silken and hearty. It just crumbled in your mouth like the flakiest pastry.

The chicken sandwich  with flavored mayonnaise served with housemade pickle served on the patio at Cumberland Food Company

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Is there a town in America whose pancakes are world-famous?  The short answer is no.  Yet the national chain, International House of Pancakes (aka IHOP), has institutionalized this breakfast and brunch staple nationwide, and in my local report on pancakes I thought I should experience how flapjacks from a chain pancake house stack up against local hot spots.

I ordered the buttermilk blueberry pancakes.  I asked the waitress if the blueberries used were Maine berries.  She said yes. I should have asked whether they were wild Maine blueberries.  They were not.  They were as large as mini-mothballs, with a striking resemblance in taste.

The conclusion is these pancakes were classically mediocre–doughy, floury and rough tasting.  What’s more, a knife and fork was needed to cut them apart.  The two big blobs of butter that topped the pancakes tasted like butter facsimiles as was the array of pancake syrup on the table: classic, strawberry, pecan and blueberry.  Real maple syrup is available for a $1.99 surcharge.  The classic syrup was nothing more that high fructose corn syrup with traces of maple flavoring and coloring.  I tried the blueberry syrup, too, which had a medicinal taste.

Filled with high-bush blueberries, choice of syrups

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