East Ender

Something old, Something New–That’s Caiola’s now that Damian Sansonetti and Illma Lopez Make it their Own

July 12, 2016 / / Restaurants

The most significant, obvious differences in the newly acquired Caiola’s are two-fold: Its long-running chef and owner, Abby Harmon, who has been considered one of Portland’s most creative chefs, has departed the scene—temporarily, probably—selling the restaurant to one of Portland’s most accomplished chefs, Damian Sansonetti and his wife, pastry chef Ilma Lopez , who are stepping into Caiola’s spotlight while maintaining their fabulous Piccolo.

Brunch specials of the old Caiola's: Clockwise: pancakes, Hot Brown, Bird's Nest, special French Toast

Brunch specials of the old Caiola’s: Clockwise: pancakes, Hot Brown, Bird’s Nest, special French Toast

What they do and how they do it will be closely watched.

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Seven Days of Dining: Maine Restaurant Week, Boston Burger and New York Italian

March 7, 2016 / / Discoveries, Restaurants

Few surprises populate the Maine Restaurant Week list of participants in the Portland area.  Absent were members of the so-called hot list of new haunts such as Terlingua, Roustabout and Woodford Food and Beverage.   But do try the East Ender  for one of the best meals around from their $25 MRW prix fixe menu.  Or go to Tempo Dulu for its $45 prix fixe, a relative bargain for this divine restaurant.

MRW east ender front night

These restaurant weeks—as most are  intended around the country in food-focused cities—are a way to invigorate the slower late winter-early spring months to draw diners in.  That means, if you cater to reverse logic, those perennially busy restaurants—not on the list–might be easier to get into without reservations since the bulk of local diners are flocking to MRW members.

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The Brunch Report: No Need to go West When the East Ender Delivers Mighty Fine Fare

February 15, 2016 / / Restaurants

If lack of wherewithal stirs unhappiness, then the effulgence of Sunday brunch is a fine remedy.  That and a glass of morning Sherry on the porch opens the door to countless revelries.  Portland abounds with choices and as you’ve read here I’ve given my opinion on many places.  But one that has slipped my sights is the East Ender.

The downstairs dining room and bar at East Ender

The downstairs dining room and bar at East Ender

My only regret is that chefs and owners Karl Deuben and Bill Leavey traded in their Small Axe food truck for the brick and mortar route; theirs was, to date, the best of the lot as far as food truck cuisine goes in Portland.

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Act Three: Congress Squared’s new chefs are doing it so right with a sophisticated, highly conceived small-plate menu

February 5, 2016 / / Restaurants

This is not a traditional restaurant review  but rather it’s intended to report  on the newly invigorated menu at Congress Squared at the Westin Portland Harborview.  Last Thursday night  a dinner was prepared for press and industry folk  to sample the new dishes with chefs Brian Anderson (executive chef) and Elisha (pronounced Elijah) Irland (chef de cuisine) running the show.

Clockwise: C2"s banquettes; chef Brian Anderson (right) and attendees at the press and industry dinner

Clockwise: C2″s banquettes; chef Brian Anderson (right) and attendees at the press and industry dinner

Each dish—and there were many—were killer efforts that the kitchen team produced with suavity and assuredness.  The smoked duck breast, for example, over a cunningly devised puree of rosemary with dots of roasted grapes and garlic confit created an arsenal of flavor that put the whole chorus of fine cooking on a high note. The sweet-smoky duck breast soaking up the vivaciousness of the rosemary puree underneath was further complimented by the umami of  sweetly pungent pairing of grapes and garlic confit.

Smoked duck breast with rosemary

Smoked duck breast with rosemary

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Portland Dining 2015: The Top Ten Newcomers who are continuing to make the city a destination for innovative dining

December 25, 2015 / / Restaurants

It’s been another banner year in 2015 for Portland area restaurants, with the best and brightest showing remarkable menus and innovative cooking, giving the birth of cool cuisine vitality.

Lobster tartine at The Honey Paw

Lobster tartine at The Honey Paw

While last year was all about small plates, 2015 mixed it up with both small and large plate menus in the mix. Of the 20 or so new establishments in our region, only 10 really made the grade as being special.  Union, Isa, East Ender, Tiqa, Roustabout, Evo, Tempo Dulu, Terlingua, The Honey Paw and even Cape Elizabeth chimed in with Rudy’s in the heart of that coastal suburb.

The spectacular space at Evo serves divine Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare with chef Matt Ginn at the helm

The spectacular space at Evo serves divine Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare with chef Matt Ginn at the helm

What was distinctive about these newcomers was the Big Money spent on décor, creating unique, often luxurious interiors beyond the traditional post and beam and brick confines that Maine restaurants favor.

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Little Tap House: Portland’s reigning gastro pub at the corner of High and Spring streets

October 16, 2015 / / Restaurants

Little Tap House has grown into a full-fledged neighborhood meeting place that serves not only craft cocktails and local brews but a decently satisfying menu of creative pub grub.  The night we were there earlier this week the place was literally packed to the rafters.  It had great vibes and atmosphere as a thriving popular pub.

From the young and restless to savvy Westenders, the crowd is always congenial

From the young and restless to savvy Westenders, the crowd is always congenial

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Brunch that gratifies: new, novel and/or noteworthy

September 21, 2015 / / Restaurants, Uncategorized

French toast made with corn bread?  A new twist on eggs Benedict as though an old faithful really needs twisting and shaking? Sometimes it’s the tried and true that is the most satisfying.  Then, again, when you experience a dish that’s truly novel  that’s cause for culinary celebration, too.

I made the happy error of mixing up my brunch dates thinking that yesterday—Sunday—was the date for a brunch I was invited to.  I looked up the email invitation and saw that it was for next Sunday.

Piccolo's charmingly rustic dining room

Piccolo’s  dining bar and  wine rack

But I was all psyched for brunch without a destination.  Though my favorite spots like Caiola’s or Sur-Lie beckoned  I decided to go to someplace I’d not been to in a while.

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Where to eat now, where to go next and a few dining conundrums in Portland

August 10, 2015 / / Discoveries, Restaurants

After a scintillating dinner at Tempo Dulu Saturday night, one of nearly bacchanalian proportions, everywhere else I ate last week was so tame (though pretty good) by comparison. (Shown on the intro page is mixologist’s Trevin Hutchins Wayang Cocktail)

A trio of desserts at Tempo Dulu

A trio of desserts at Tempo Dulu

Last night’s options, however, were a mixed bag of where to eat since many favorite places are closed on Sundays, a mistake perhaps if restaurateurs are looking for the big dollars from the brigade of tourists now everywhere in Portland.

I considered going to Sur-Lie, but they close down for Sunday dinner after serving their very popular brunch earlier in the day.

Chef Matt Ginn's terrific lamp preparation at Evo enjoyed on earlier occasionis

Chef Matt Ginn’s terrific lamp preparation at Evo enjoyed on earlier occasionis

Ebb and Flow, on teeming Commercial Street, is also closed on Sundays and I haven’t been there in a long while.  Same for Tiqa.  Keeping with the growing Mediterranean theme gaining popularity, I considered stopping at Evo but parking anywhere in the congested Old Port that night was difficult.

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