Hot Suppa

The American breakfast, bacon and eggs, is alive and well  at Portland diners and hash houses.  But the tab has gone sky high.  While we’re all having sticker shock as consumers, perhaps the most egregious price hikes beyond the gas pump are for something we’ve long taken for granted.

The basic diner-menu breakfast used to include two eggs, bacon, ham or sausage, home fries and toast. I remember it being $6.99 not too long ago.  But after a  doing a round up of breakfast haunts, which I started in January, I’ve found it’s a solid $10 to $12 and higher for basic breakfast fare– the pay more and get less syndrome.  It’s like the  pound of coffee that shrank to 12 ounces some years ago; or boxed  cake mixes now at 15. 25 ounces that used to weigh in at 18.5 ounces. Even the shampoo that I’ve used for year came out with packaging that proclaimed  a “new look, but same old formula”  The new look was a shrunken bottle  weighing 10 ounces instead of 12.  So far a  pound of butter is still a pound.  Woe be the day when those 4 ounce sticks become 3; there’d be mayhem in kitchens everywhere.

Two eggs, sausage patty, home fries and raisin toast at Moody’s

The reliable greasy spoons that we love are charging ahead with full seats  after the pandemic closed off most dining counters.  Here’s what you get nowadays  at breakfast places in and around Greater Portland’s diners and dives.

Hot Suppa.  Only a few stools  at the counter are available in this shoebox of a space, so one doesn’t have much choice but to sit close to your neighbor. There is still table seating.  Their classic B&E is called the Hollis and costs  $12 or $16 with bacon or sausage.   But the eggs are good, though no crispy edges and the thick bacon is a bit chewy.  The hash browns are tasty, reasonably crisp, but I’ve had better.  And what’s with the one slice of toast instead of the usual two?  All in all not a bad breakfast. B+

B&E plate–the Hollis–at Hot Suppa with one slice of toast and classic hash browns and smoky bacon

Hot Suppa’s evocative mural at the entry vestibule

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Neighborhood restaurants orbit in their own world.  Warm, cozy and familiar they tend to eschew trendiness and other social hysterias.  They’re everywhere around Greater Portland, for better or worse.  But the most revered remain Caiola’s in the West End; Hot Suppa, Local 188 and others around Longfellow Square; Lolita, the Front Room and Blue Spoon on Munjoy Hill.  These are some of the city’s standard bearers of dining in the hood.  Now you can add Abilene to the group.  Opened since June, it holds sway in the Woodford’s area.  The difference is that this part of Portland doesn’t attract foodie preeners or make way for the next Central Provisions. 

Caesar salad; the dining room at Abilene

Caesar salad; the dining room at Abilene

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There’s a lot of good corned beef hash served at Portland restaurants–especially those with brunch menus.  In fact, you can get hash on any day where breakfast is served—from hotel dining rooms to dives and everything else in between.

LFK's delicious curried corned beef hash

LFK’s delicious curried corned beef hash

Hot Suppa, Marcy’s, Becky’s, Local 188, Front Room, to name a few have admirable dishes of corned beef hash.

But the winner for the most unusual is cooked up at LFK.  The bar/restaurant follows an interesting concept of offering two plate sizes for many of its dishes.  Whatever size you choose you get a heaping helping of hash in the small ($9) or large ($16) portion size. Unless you’re feeling voracious the small  portion is  plenty big filling an 8-inch round dinner plate to the rim.

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From the divine dining annals of  Middle Street (Eventide, Duckfat, East Ender,  et al) to the proprietors on the four corners of Longfellow Square,  the legion of brunch buckaroos waiting on line to get into Portland’s trendiest eateries has spiraled to new highs.  All that craving rush for variations on eggs Benedict or the latest take on tater tots define this culinary madness.

The hot spots, Local 188, Eventide, East Ender and Duckfat

The hot spots, Local 188, Eventide, East Ender and Duckfat

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