Isa

The point is,  can you get into any restaurant in Portland  on the spur of the moment? No.   From persnickety websites to various ways of reserving a table, it’s not so easy.  Online is encouraged, but in person or phone discouraged.  Tuesday has become the new Monday, both of which have been the day that most restaurants are closed.  Then there’s the Wednesday dilemma–some closed, a few open–where dining out can only take place Thursday to Sunday.  Dining tables inside or out are precious few to reserve.  If your favorite restaurants are serving at full capacity, where every allowable table is ready to be booked, the restaurant’s staff may still be limited, thus affecting the easy sway that restaurants used to enjoy–yes, I’ll say it–“pre-pandemic.”

The perfect Negroni at EVO

One place that I often visit when I don’t feel like cooking is a neighborhood eatery (Munjoy Hill) that specializes in pizza.  The problem is you can’t call up to order a pie.  It must be done online.  Recently I walked in since I was in the neighborhood to place my order for pizza pie.  I was told it must be done online. (Why not in person?)  I answered that I have problems with the website, filtered by TOAST, the popular format for online ordering.  Sometimes you hit it just right and can breeze through the process.  But doing it on a cell phone is not effortless if downright impossible.   It just it doesn’t work that well.  I spent 5 minutes once looking for the menu on which to place my check mark to order.

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It’s been several weeks since I’ve  cooked at home. The  reason is that I had to deal with packing up my kitchen for my move to a new apartment. That fateful, monumental event took place about a week ago.  My new apartment is still filled with unpacked cartons (there were originally 80 cartons of books, dishes and bric a brac of every type such as piles of placemats and napkins that I forgot I had). In my new kitchen I have lots of drawers and cabinets and am slowly filling them.  One notable mishap was that I couldn’t find the carton that contained all my spices.  From peppercorns to exotic blends, even vanilla extract  and my homemade baking powder  were  all missing.  And then  yesterday I finally found them in a carton marked “Fragile Glassware.”  Indeed.

So like so many in Portland I’ve resorted to take out before and during  Covid quarantine.

In general, my biggest gripe is the navigability of the  restaurant websites. Many are hosted by Upserve, which  can be finicky.  And heaven help us if you want to feed yourself on Mondays to Wednesdays since most of the kitchens limit  take out to Thursday through Sunday. There are some exceptions, of course.  And I fully understand that restaurants are operating on lean budgets and staff.  I think Damian Sansonetti and Illma   Lopez of Chaval are virtually solo in their kitchen,  and keeping up with diner-out demand is difficult. Monte’s, too, for his great Roman style pizza works from a skelton kitchen staff but plans to be open 6 days a week in June.

Pine Ridge Acres Farm with cases filled with fresh and frozen meat, dairy and eggs; canned good made at the farm as well

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Take a croissant, split it in half, lay it on a grill or flattop and heat all those wonderful buttery layers to unleash that moment of umami smoothness.   Then when you load the croissant with a seared crab cake, local, fresh arugula and spinach, a tomato slice, citrus mayonnaise and the final glory of a beautiful duck egg fried just right and you’ve just had one of the greatest morning breakfast sandwiches.

It was at the Salt Box Cafe where this gustatory revelation occurred.  On a perch along the Eastern Prom the truck is parked overlooking the water where owner/chef Matt Glatz holds court.  He built the kitchen cabin, which is on a flatbed hooked up to his truck.  His apt motto “tiny house, big taste” says it all.

Terrific croissant and crabcake sandwich

Terrific croissant and crabcake sandwich

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It’s been another banner year in 2015 for Portland area restaurants, with the best and brightest showing remarkable menus and innovative cooking, giving the birth of cool cuisine vitality.

Lobster tartine at The Honey Paw

Lobster tartine at The Honey Paw

While last year was all about small plates, 2015 mixed it up with both small and large plate menus in the mix. Of the 20 or so new establishments in our region, only 10 really made the grade as being special.  Union, Isa, East Ender, Tiqa, Roustabout, Evo, Tempo Dulu, Terlingua, The Honey Paw and even Cape Elizabeth chimed in with Rudy’s in the heart of that coastal suburb.

The spectacular space at Evo serves divine Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare with chef Matt Ginn at the helm

The spectacular space at Evo serves divine Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare with chef Matt Ginn at the helm

What was distinctive about these newcomers was the Big Money spent on décor, creating unique, often luxurious interiors beyond the traditional post and beam and brick confines that Maine restaurants favor.

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As the city of Portland grapples with the boom of new housing on the peninsula, one dividend is food and dining venues emerge as an outgrowth. The opening of Rosemont Market at West End Place, for example, serves the densely populated West End and its need to have food shops in the neighborhood.  As for dining, there’s only a few restaurants beyond Longfellow Square in the heart of the West End except for Caiola’s—still a long-time favorite for area locals—and Bonobo, the corner restaurant serving artisanal pizza.

In adjacent Bayside, that a place like Isa caught on so fast gives credence to an emergent neighborhood even though the grandness of Back Bay Grill a few doors away didn’t stem the tide when it entered this fringe environment decades ago. Plenty of vagrants and druggies still  roam the streets, but now they co-mingle with ever more Mercedes and Lexus SUVs looking to park and dine at Isa or Back Bay.

The charming dining room at Isa

The charming dining room at Isa

Isa and Back Bay are my neighborhood restaurants. Though I’ve yet  to venture  to Bubba’s Sulky Lounge or the notorious Ricky’s Tavern across the street.  Now there’s a true dive bar whose patrons were once labeled euphemistically by a city official “…as subjects seeking social service assets and resources in that area.”  Hipsters are not welcome.

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The week that was Harvest on the Harbor showcased Maine food and dining in stunning display.  But of all the events the one that cast the widest net was the Stage Dinner at Merrill Auditorium.  It’s where some of the region’s best chefs cooked a six-course dinner for a seated crowd–but this time we were not there sitting in the audience but rather participating at tables set up on stage. It virtually allowed everyone to experience the cooking from six restaurants all in one fell swoop.

Top: participating chefs, left to right--Guy Hernandez, Shannon Bard, Josh Berry, Isaul Perez

Top: some of the participating chefs, left to right–Guy Hernandez; Shannon Bard with sous chef;  Isaul Perez with Mike St. Pierre and Chris Basset

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From the divine dining annals of  Middle Street (Eventide, Duckfat, East Ender,  et al) to the proprietors on the four corners of Longfellow Square,  the legion of brunch buckaroos waiting on line to get into Portland’s trendiest eateries has spiraled to new highs.  All that craving rush for variations on eggs Benedict or the latest take on tater tots define this culinary madness.

The hot spots, Local 188, Eventide, East Ender and Duckfat

The hot spots, Local 188, Eventide, East Ender and Duckfat

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