Portland farmer’s market

This is the first time in years that I didn’t go to the Saturday farmer’s market in Deering Oaks. Not  much  is there in terms of local produce other than the long-awaited arrival of rhubarb and asparagus.  Though I’ve ferreted out early arrivals at some of the farm stores like Spring Brook and Jordan Farm. But under present conditions the market is not much fun.

Portland’s farmer’s markets are still under pandemic rule.  Farmers’ incomes are hurting because attendance isn’t what it used to be. In Portland the vendors are still spread out–not six feet apart but more like 20 feet–into two sections of the park, with vendors allowed to operate on only one side of the walkways, with  one-way shopper traffic still the rule.  And though the Portland Farmers Market lists over 40 vendors, I’ve not seen more than around 20 of them spread out through the park. Some like Green Spark Farm don’t even attend the market anymore, when at one time they were a mainstay at Wednesday and Saturday market days.

One way traffic at Portland’s Saturday farmers’ market Circa summer 2020

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Most of the farmers I’ve spoken to at Portland’s “new” outdoor  market in Deering Oaks are relieved that it’s allowed to operate.  One farmer told me there were tough negotiations with the city who set out to make very strict rules governing the market to address the various pandemic  issues of shopping there.  Has the city, as it usually does, gone too far? The vendors prevailed and negotiated hard to be allowed to operate in a reasonable fashion.

The redone Portland Farmer’s Market

The lonely one way road at Portland’s farmers market

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To many Portlanders, the Saturday summer Farmer’s Market held at Deering Oaks is sacrosanct.  That’s why I can’t understand why the market gets upstaged—at the same time and place–by the yearly Festival of Nations.  Couldn’t that event be held on a Sunday and not interrupt the coveted farmer’s market?

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A sure sign of spring, with summer to come, is the opening of Portland’s Deering Oaks outdoor farmers market.  It’s a sigh of relief that the glories of Maine summer weather are in the wings.  Still,  at this time of year the park is barely greening up, with the trees struggling to leaf out and the grass panting to become a rich green.

The sign “No” refers to more parking restrictions at the park;  the remains of a big oak; the lineup of vendors on one side of the road and cut flowers like daffs trickle in for now

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All those local winter carrots that you see piled up at farmers markets are still packed with flavor.  They are part of the group that farmers call storage crops, such as potatoes and onions, and those five pound bags are a pretty good deal.  I tend to buy them loose from the box so I can mix up the colors of orange, red and various shades of yellow.

Carrots at the farmers market (Brunswick Winter Market and Portland Winter Market)

Carrots at the farmers market (Brunswick Winter Market and Portland Winter Market)

One of my favorite dishes using carrots is what I call winter carrot soup.  It can be served as an elegant first course or at any kind of dinner menu.     It only requires onions, carrots and a good stock.  It’s further enriched with heavy cream and has an unusual spice component of star anise, which gives it an exotic flavor.

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By 9 AM on Saturday, the opening day of the Portland  winter farmers market got off to a rousing start as shoppers filed through the glass doors at 84 Cove St. in East Bayside. With plenty of spaces to park onsite, by 10 AM the place was packed as though farm-to-table was in jeopardy of becoming passé. But fear not, Portland shoppers can continue to source their foods from local purveyors as the winter market carries on the tradition that allows our passion to buy local thrive.

covemarketcollage

The space itself is a bit labyrinthine as the flow of rooms are  tight, but overall  the multi-room layout works, making the space feel more like a charming boutique than a cavernous warehouse.

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Featured here is one of the pie recipes that I would get from Keith Boyle, a longtime fixture at the Portland farmer’s market at Uncle’s Farm Stand. He passed on October 8th unexpectedly from a fatal heart attack.

Keith Boyle-- recent photo offered by Uncle's Farm owner Mike Farwell; inset; his Grandmother Gilbert's crabapple pie

Keith Boyle– recent photo offered by Uncle’s Farm owner Mike Farwell; inset; his Grandmother Gilbert’s crabapple pie

Over the years he would share his family’s recipes with me–both from his mother, Patty Boyle, who passed some years ago and his grandmother, Gladys Gilbert, 90. These are all old-fashioned farm recipes, some dating back many decades. This crabapple pie is typical of the great recipes Keith offered.

As American as crabapple pie?  Well, hardly, since this fruit doesn’t’ enjoy the same popularity as its larger cousin, the apple.  That’s a shame because crabapples are a sturdy little fruit with a distinctive taste that work beautifully in pies, jams (very high in pectin), chutneys and sauces.

Crabapples are a little difficult to work with because they’re so small.  They generally don’t need peeling; if you did, using the standard peeler might result in some nicked fingers. Actually it’s preferable to leave the skins on because they’re pectin rich and act as a natural thickener.

Gladys Gilbert's crabapple pie

Gladys Gilbert’s crabapple pie

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October brought in the first fall weekend that seemed like classic autumn in Maine: puffy cumulus clouds hanging from  bright blue skies; the farmers’ markets in full swing with squash, apples, Brussels sprouts and vibrant root vegetables looking as luscious as ever. Even what we eat and where we go to have it takes on the hues of seasonal change.  I made my first meatloaf since last year.  Sweaters were unpacked, socks covered ankles, jackets donned and a wool blazer worn in the evening. Even a stroll through Portland’s Saturday farmer’s market made me think I should have worn gloves since the brisk winds made the 48 degree temperature feel much colder.

Clockwise: cows grazing on pasture at Bisson's Farm and butcher shop, Topsham; farmer's market at Brunswick-Topsham Land Trust

Clockwise: cows grazing on pasture at Bisson’s Farm and butcher shop, Topsham; farmer’s market at Brunswick-Topsham Land Trust

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Blackberries are probably the most perishable and mysterious of our summer berry crop.  Their season is even shorter than raspberries and once picked, their shelf life is fleeting.  But while they’re at the markets it’s a good idea to stock up on them now.  They freeze beautifully and you can use them throughout the year in pastries, over ice cream, for jam or added to the juicer.

Blackberries lightly washed and strained in a colander

Not many farmers at Portland’s market have blackberries.  Right now, Thirty Acre Farm and Goranson have a small stash of berries, which grow wild on their land.  Uncle’s Farm Stand tends to have berries too.

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Now’s the time to put all those summer berries and fruits into flaky pie doughs and luscious cobblers and crisps.  But one fruit is the prize of the season: the elusive sour cherry.  Their season is short and they’re in the markets now at about $6 per pint. A few vendors at the Portland farmer’s market sell them, notably Uncle’s Farm from Hollis.

Sour cherries

Sour cherries

The best is sour cherry pie, a treasure of sweet and tart.  The pie is easy to make, but pitting the cherries is a chore.  I have two cherry pitters, in which each pits four cherries at a time. So I can get 8 cherries done in about 30 seconds.  You’ll need two to three pints, or 4 cups whole cherries.  If you go to the Bed Bath & Beyond website (follow link for page) and search for cherry pitters, they offer several that pit multiple cherries at a time.  Leroux Kitchen in Portland generally carries pitters, too.

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