Rosemont Market

As the city of Portland grapples with the boom of new housing on the peninsula, one dividend is food and dining venues emerge as an outgrowth. The opening of Rosemont Market at West End Place, for example, serves the densely populated West End and its need to have food shops in the neighborhood.  As for dining, there’s only a few restaurants beyond Longfellow Square in the heart of the West End except for Caiola’s—still a long-time favorite for area locals—and Bonobo, the corner restaurant serving artisanal pizza.

In adjacent Bayside, that a place like Isa caught on so fast gives credence to an emergent neighborhood even though the grandness of Back Bay Grill a few doors away didn’t stem the tide when it entered this fringe environment decades ago. Plenty of vagrants and druggies still  roam the streets, but now they co-mingle with ever more Mercedes and Lexus SUVs looking to park and dine at Isa or Back Bay.

The charming dining room at Isa

The charming dining room at Isa

Isa and Back Bay are my neighborhood restaurants. Though I’ve yet  to venture  to Bubba’s Sulky Lounge or the notorious Ricky’s Tavern across the street.  Now there’s a true dive bar whose patrons were once labeled euphemistically by a city official “…as subjects seeking social service assets and resources in that area.”  Hipsters are not welcome.

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When Maine Street Meats, Bleecker and Flamm (the names of the co-owners) made some news recently on a local food site–their desultory mention was buried in a story about sandwiches.  Maine Street Meats has an exemplary one, a Vietnamese bahn mi offered on Tuesdays.  But this exquisite delicacy shop also has steamed pork buns on Thursdays as well as thin-crust pizzas daily and stuffed savory breads and double chocolate chip cookies that are popular with the lunch crowd every day.

Maine Street Meats offers gourmet packaged goods, local meats, cheese, breads and  house-made charcuterie

Maine Street Meats offers gourmet packaged goods, local meats, cheese, house-baked breads and house-made charcuterie

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Apple Brown Betty is a thoroughly   American dessert that belongs to a group of cobbler-style preparations that include grunts, crisps, crumbles, pandowdies, buckles, slumps, flummeries and the sonker, a dessert found in North Carolina cookery.

Apple brown Betty in all its glory. Serve it with good vanilla ice cream, preferably homemade

Apple brown Betty in all its glory. Serve it with good vanilla ice cream, preferably homemade

In many ways the Betty most resembles a kind of bread pudding or crisp. But instead of using bread cubes, crumbs are the preferred topping and thickener for the filling.

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Sometimes it’s the side dishes that are the most interesting as the sensual sidekicks to the main course. At this time of year tomatoes and corn are center stage and can be a great duo when served together as a side-dish pairing.

Baked summer pudding

Baked summer tomato  pudding

Two of my favorites are a baked tomato casserole and a corn dish. The tomatoes are baked with good crusty bread, akin to a tomato pudding.  And the corn is an interesting devise in which you cook fresh kernels off the cob in some butter and cream to soften then add steamed or boiled summer squash that’s mashed and added to the corn mixture to cook for a while longer until the two become even richer.  The corn helps to thicken the stew, something like an embellished creamed corn dish, with the squash added for texture and sweetness.

Velvet corn and squash

Velvet corn and squash

I made these two dishes last night while the evening was still steeped in a chilly rain.  The main course was pork chops served with an accompaniment of beets and carrots.  The meal offers a lot of vegetables, but at this time of year everything is at its prime.

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Specialty food retailers have not made a big push into Portland since Whole Foods entered town followed several years later by Trader Joe’s.  The latter remains my least favorite place to shop, though it certainly has its fans who swarm the frozen aisle cases for esoteric Asian entrees and small bites or coffees, teas, wine and the like.  I do admit to going there for several TJ brand items:  Dijon mustard,  packaged nuts , bags of hardwood briquettes and occasionally bottles of Gerolsteiner sparkling  mineral water because it’s 20 cents cheaper than at  Whole Foods and much less than at other retailers who carry it, such as The Portland Food Co-op who charges $1.69 per bottle.

From left to right clockwise: Whole Foods, Lois', Rosemont, The Farm Stand

From left to right clockwise: Whole Foods, Lois’, Rosemont, The Farm Stand

Whole Foods, though,  is my default store. But they’re no Eataly, Zabar’s or Dean and DeLuca whose international displays of foods are phenomenal.

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