Solo Italiano

That Solo Italiano—one of the best restaurants in Portland—now serves lunch is real cause for celebration given the city’s slim pickings of serious lunch spots. Apart from the slew of inventive dining options along Washington Avenue or Middle Street, lunchtime is otherwise standard fare where the dreaded wrap is about as good as it gets.  I often go to Becky’s for lunch for its cozy menu of comfort food.

Solo opened for lunch last week, and on its first day the place was packed with noontime diners.  The room itself is beautiful and bright in the daytime—service is in the bar room and tables along the wall.  The rest of this large restaurant is closed for daytime.

There’s a slicing station in the middle of the room where salame, bresaola, fish crudo and prosciutto are cut for the beautiful plates of simple salads and sliced meats.

Top, clockwise: focaccia with pickled vegetables; salame plate, squash soup with Parmesan

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The last time I reviewed Solo Italiano was back in  May when it first opened, and I was very impressed and wrote at the time that the food had an incredible lightness of being, each dish displaying fine subtleties of preparation and flavor.  Yet until then all of the other restaurants that operated prior to Solo’s tenancy at 100 Commercial St failed as if felled by the Curse of Tutankhamen, dying inexplicably even when they were critically acclaimed. But Solo Italiano’s co-owner and chef, Paolo Laboa (along with star Portland fish purveyor Angelo  Ciocca), who hails from Genoa and has cooked on both coasts in America for over 10 years, is firmly in command  of his kitchen, creating Italian fare–mostly locally sourced–that is literally an unleashing of culinary finery.  And after my two recent dinners last week I was left with this impression: Solo Italiano has the qualities of style and cuisine like the white-clothed dining citadels in Rome, where haute Italian fare is at its finest.

The three dining area: rear dining room, the great circular bar area and the side dining room facing the crudo station are  intimate and comfortable

The three dining area: rear dining room, the great circular bar area and the side dining room facing the crudo station are intimate and comfortable

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Rossobianco opened recently without the usual frenzy or shrugs of a must-go-to new and novel place to dine in a city getting overwrought with sure-fire James Beard Award nominees.  And believe it or not, Bon Appétit Magazine–which I still remember as a third-class citizen when Gourmet and Food and Wine reigned in the food magazine world–has yet to pounce on this newcomer. (I’ve heard that BA staffers keep an apartment in Portland so that they can be first in the door and first to publish news about our vibrant dining scene.)

The food-magazine oracles should visit because Rossobianco is very good.  I’ve been there twice—well almost three times—in the last several weeks.  It’s located at the inauspicious corner known as Bramhall Square. Ask one of out of three Portlanders where this is and you’d probably induce a few scratched heads.

Rossobianco at Bramhall Square, 3 Deering Ave.

Rossobianco at Bramhall Square, 3 Deering Ave.

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In the recent surge of new restaurant openings in Portland, Italian cuisine has not been a strong contender.  One exception is the highly regarded Piccolo, with its powerhouse menu of regional Italian cuisine inspired by the cooking of central and southern Italy that chefs and co-owners Damian Sansonetti and Ilma Lopez do so well.  Otherwise, our city has glided past  the great reign of red-sauce houses and trendy trattorias.  That is until now, with the debut of Solo Italiano, in the cavernous space formerly occupied by Ebb and Flow. Here the menu presents Northern Italian cuisine, a broad label that can mean a lot of things.

The entry leads to the great central bar

The entry leads to the great central bar

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