Terlingua

Portland is, after all, a very small city but one whose cause and effect stir the pot when anything new or different comes along. Our dining scene is a prime example. As soon as a new restaurant opens, the local pundits pounce hard and fast to get their words out there immediately, and diners follow suit to flood these new eateries enthusiastically. I include myself in the crowd, though I hope what I have to report and posit are meaningful. That said, the newly opened—and at this writing the restaurant is just days old—Woodford Food and Beveragehas made the obligatory splash. (See my earlier Preview write up).

The WFB dining room bar on opening night; lower right, the corner banquette

It’s the first new restaurant on the scene in 2016 but not far behind two other bright new stars, Terlingua and Roustabout. The latter two have carved out a niche along Washington Avenue. And there’s more coming on the avenue, too, with Maine and Loire expanding its reach (Drifter’s Wife, a wine bar) and a café and chocolate bar, A Lively Palate.

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Update your address book and enter Woodford Food and Beverage. It’s the first new restaurant of the year. The official opening date is Wednesday, January 20, at 660 Forest Ave. at Woodford’s Corner. But the restaurant has been holding friends and family nights all weekend long, and I was fortunate to have attended one of the dinners.

The sleek dining room is both family friendly and date night chic

Essentially it’s an American bistro serving stylish fare prepared by Chef Courtney Loreg whose resume includes a four year stint at Fore Street, 2 years at the former Bresca and several years at Wente Vineyards in California, before moving back to Maine.

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Of all the new restaurant openings of 2015 few have achieved such solid footing as Terlingua. And they’ve achieved this even without adding the millennial menu essential, quinoa in all its guises. Rather it’s essentially a barbecue joint. But that doesn’t begin to tell what it does so well beyond lunch and dinner (see past reviews). Stage left enter their Sunday brunch. I had it for the first time this weekend and enjoyed one of the best examples of the otherwise ubiquitous eggs Benedict.

At Terlingua both the bar and dining area are busy at brunch

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It’s been another banner year in 2015 for Portland area restaurants, with the best and brightest showing remarkable menus and innovative cooking, giving the birth of cool cuisine vitality.

Lobster tartine at The Honey Paw

While last year was all about small plates, 2015 mixed it up with both small and large plate menus in the mix. Of the 20 or so new establishments in our region, only 10 really made the grade as being special. Union, Isa, East Ender, Tiqa, Roustabout, Evo, Tempo Dulu, Terlingua, The Honey Paw and even Cape Elizabeth chimed in with Rudy’s in the heart of that coastal suburb.

The spectacular space at Evo serves divine Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare with chef Matt Ginn at the helm

What was distinctive about these newcomers was the Big Money spent on décor, creating unique, often luxurious interiors beyond the traditional post and beam and brick confines that Maine restaurants favor.

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What a display of Portland diners flocking to first night this past Tuesday at the newly opened Roustabout. To wit-it’s the latest darling in the mannered pleasures of our city’s boundlessly good restaurants. Located in the historic Nissen Bakery Building on Washington Avenue, it joins a diverse roster of establishments already on the strip, most notably the recently opened Terlingua.

Roustabout’s conceptual karma is the handiwork of Portland branding specialists, Might and Main who’ve helped fashion such high fliers as Central Provisions, Hugo’s, Honey Paw and more among the trendy watering holes and eateries that are defining the city.

Roustabout’s dining room and bar

You see the Might and Main touches right away in the blond wood, the prominent bar and the generally cool sleekness in design. While brand-building helps, ultimately it’s what co-owners Kit Paschal and Anders Tallberg have delivered in decor, ambiance and food. Paschal hails as bar and beverage personality from Boston and Tallberg has had some impressive chef credentials in that city too.

Together this duo is delivering in spades. After two dinners there I experienced superb food served by a first-rate wait staff and, for once, the front- of -the house attention to detail was meaningful.

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If you haven’t been to Terlingua yet-the neighborhood restaurant that is the new anchor along a burgeoning restaurant strip in this desultory part of town-it’s time to join the crowds who already favor it as a congenial haunt for barbecue.

Along Washington Avenue, the Nissen building across the street will be housing a new restaurant; outdoor dining at Terlingua

I first wrote about it in June when it opened. I had the pork belly and shell-on shrimp and liked both. The pork was cooked just right with its fatty layer of skin rendered crisp and sweet with honey. And the guajillo chili sauce that cloaked the shrimp had a nice winey favor typical of the guajillo. The shrimp were good, though most likely flash frozen and thawed. It’s nearly impossible to get fresh caught Gulf shrimp in Maine.

Pork belly and head-on shrimp

Terlingua is essentially barbecue but not the usual kind in which northern cooks try to mimic Down South pit masters. The food has also been described as Latin. But the closest it gets to it is more Tex-Mex border food.

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After a scintillating dinner at Tempo Dulu Saturday night, one of nearly bacchanalian proportions, everywhere else I ate last week was so tame (though pretty good) by comparison. (Shown on the intro page is mixologist’s Trevin Hutchins Wayang Cocktail)

A trio of desserts at Tempo Dulu

Last night’s options, however, were a mixed bag of where to eat since many favorite places are closed on Sundays, a mistake perhaps if restaurateurs are looking for the big dollars from the brigade of tourists now everywhere in Portland.

I considered going to Sur-Lie, but they close down for Sunday dinner after serving their very popular brunch earlier in the day.

Chef Matt Ginn’s terrific lamp preparation at Evo enjoyed on earlier occasionis

Ebb and Flow, on teeming Commercial Street, is also closed on Sundays and I haven’t been there in a long while. Same for Tiqa. Keeping with the growing Mediterranean theme gaining popularity, I considered stopping at Evo but parking anywhere in the congested Old Port that night was difficult.

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It’s been a while since another barbecue restaurant has opened in Greater Portland beyond Salvage and Elsmere. Otherwise, our restaurant world bulges with Asian and American bistro cuisines, with the plethora of small-plates in a continual burst of fusion flourishes. But now we have Terlingua, on the burgeoning restaurant row of Washington Avenue, formerly one of the grimiest byways in the city. But gentrification is everywhere in Portland, and even the disparities of this neighborhood are coming together.

The start of an outdoor patio and the pleasant interiors of Terlingua

Terlingua’s handle is to offer barbecue with a Latin flavor. After one visit (on opening night), my first impression has left me nonplussed regarding having a romp through a Latin style of barbecue. If you look deep and hard into the flavor profile of the menu, it does have a subtle Latin bent (more border cuisine of Tex-Mex), but I wouldn’t say it goes whole hog. There’s the use of various chilies; hominy (homemade or canned?) in the chicken pozole; the shell-on shrimp is bathed in a guajillo chili sauce. And such dishes as chicharron of pork belly with a honeyed glazed were impressive presentations.

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