The Francis

You’ve got to be a brave chef to put tongue on the menu.  And it is offered here in flying colors.  Flood’s  chef/owner Greg Mitchell has proven his mettle in many ways, especially at the Palace Diner where he and co-owner and chef Chad Conley (of Rose Foods bagel-Jewish deli fame) have made tuna melts and flapjacks an art of the meal.

But at Flood’s, recently opened in the Francis Hotel as an independent restaurant (it has its own entrance apart from the hotel but no relationship to the functionality of the building as a 15-room inn), the tongue in question stands brazenly apart among less rarefied entrees.  Unless you consider chicken schnitzel rarefied.  That too is on the menu and is as large as the breast from a condor, covering a platter- size plate with no space to spare.

The main dining room with banquettes and booths and the ante room with several tables

More to the point, the menu is an odd compilation offering a list of dishes under the heading of Dinner such as cheese toast, salad, clam and mussel toast among the four lone entrée-style dishes –seared beef tongue, homemade pork sausage, whole roasted mackerel and chicken schnitzel.  These are served unadorned.  If you want a side, they’re separately listed: grilled summer squash, charred broccoli, marinated beans and fries.

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In other cities—from, let’s say, Cleveland to Minneapolis, Birmingham to Chapel Hill or  to the four corners of the continental United States, including Portland, Maine—the progressive dining-out reawakening that has evolved over many decades, beyond American chop suey and veal- parm Italian American style—brings us to a present-day Disneyland of trendy dining. This has  gone beyond the locavorism of American bistro, small-plate kickshaws and fusion fare  so that a restaurant such as Bolster, Snow typifies the new breed of chefs and restauranteurs who create dishes that defy hyperbolic categorization.  That is, namely, it’s the delicious food prepared with an American touch of freshness and local ingredients defining the bold fare served at Bolster, Snow.

The streetside facade of The Francis; the bar and the reception rooms

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