Union

It’s been several weeks since I’ve  cooked at home. The  reason is that I had to deal with packing up my kitchen for my move to a new apartment. That fateful, monumental event took place about a week ago.  My new apartment is still filled with unpacked cartons (there were originally 80 cartons of books, dishes and bric a brac of every type such as piles of placemats and napkins that I forgot I had). In my new kitchen I have lots of drawers and cabinets and am slowly filling them.  One notable mishap was that I couldn’t find the carton that contained all my spices.  From peppercorns to exotic blends, even vanilla extract  and my homemade baking powder  were  all missing.  And then  yesterday I finally found them in a carton marked “Fragile Glassware.”  Indeed.

So like so many in Portland I’ve resorted to take out before and during  Covid quarantine.

In general, my biggest gripe is the navigability of the  restaurant websites. Many are hosted by Upserve, which  can be finicky.  And heaven help us if you want to feed yourself on Mondays to Wednesdays since most of the kitchens limit  take out to Thursday through Sunday. There are some exceptions, of course.  And I fully understand that restaurants are operating on lean budgets and staff.  I think Damian Sansonetti and Illma   Lopez of Chaval are virtually solo in their kitchen,  and keeping up with diner-out demand is difficult. Monte’s, too, for his great Roman style pizza works from a skelton kitchen staff but plans to be open 6 days a week in June.

Pine Ridge Acres Farm with cases filled with fresh and frozen meat, dairy and eggs; canned good made at the farm as well

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Weekend cooking should begin with a classic bagel sandwich for morning.  Pictured here is an everything bagel from the Purple House Bakery whose Montreal style bagels are superb.  With a schmear of cream cheese topped with a fried egg , local tomato slices and smoked Nova from Acme Smoke House in Brooklyn (Harbor Fish carries it), the weekend food spree  at home  has begun.

Purple House Bakery bagel with Acme Nova, cream cheese, tomatoes and fried egg

But fine-dining eating-out fatigue can inflict pain occasionally.  It’s one reason why I’m cooking more at home than going out to eat.  But there was an exception a while back when we finally got a table at Union at the haute-hipster Press Hotel.  Union is one of those under-hyped restaurants when it shouldn’t be because chef Joshua Berry is a terrific cook.  His larder is chock full of locally sourced ingredients that he utilizes in creative takes on American bistro cooking.

Consider a starter course like the charcuterie board of house-cured meats such as jambon de maison, house smoked beef brisket and braised pork rillettes; or tempeh bathed in a glistening sweet-salty hoisin glaze; or an ingenious dish of sprouting cauliflower with house made lamb bacon and cloth bound cheddar or his take on southern fried buttermilk chicken with pickled cauliflower and spoonbread timbale.

I would have done a formal review of the restaurant, but on the night we were there I  didn’t intend to.

My photos were haphazard and couldn’t’ report faithfully on the many dishes we tried since I wasn’t taking notes. Suffice it to say, you should go before summer arrives and becomes packed with visitors.  Even now advance planning is advised to get a reservation.

Top, clockwise: Union dining room, charcuterie board,fried chicken, sprouting cauliflower and tempeh-hoisin

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This is not a traditional restaurant review  but rather it’s intended to report  on the newly invigorated menu at Congress Squared at the Westin Portland Harborview.  Last Thursday night  a dinner was prepared for press and industry folk  to sample the new dishes with chefs Brian Anderson (executive chef) and Elisha (pronounced Elijah) Irland (chef de cuisine) running the show.

Clockwise: C2"s banquettes; chef Brian Anderson (right) and attendees at the press and industry dinner

Clockwise: C2″s banquettes; chef Brian Anderson (right) and attendees at the press and industry dinner

Each dish—and there were many—were killer efforts that the kitchen team produced with suavity and assuredness.  The smoked duck breast, for example, over a cunningly devised puree of rosemary with dots of roasted grapes and garlic confit created an arsenal of flavor that put the whole chorus of fine cooking on a high note. The sweet-smoky duck breast soaking up the vivaciousness of the rosemary puree underneath was further complimented by the umami of  sweetly pungent pairing of grapes and garlic confit.

Smoked duck breast with rosemary

Smoked duck breast with rosemary

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It’s been another banner year in 2015 for Portland area restaurants, with the best and brightest showing remarkable menus and innovative cooking, giving the birth of cool cuisine vitality.

Lobster tartine at The Honey Paw

Lobster tartine at The Honey Paw

While last year was all about small plates, 2015 mixed it up with both small and large plate menus in the mix. Of the 20 or so new establishments in our region, only 10 really made the grade as being special.  Union, Isa, East Ender, Tiqa, Roustabout, Evo, Tempo Dulu, Terlingua, The Honey Paw and even Cape Elizabeth chimed in with Rudy’s in the heart of that coastal suburb.

The spectacular space at Evo serves divine Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare with chef Matt Ginn at the helm

The spectacular space at Evo serves divine Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare with chef Matt Ginn at the helm

What was distinctive about these newcomers was the Big Money spent on décor, creating unique, often luxurious interiors beyond the traditional post and beam and brick confines that Maine restaurants favor.

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Not every restaurant has to be cutting-edge to satisfy. But what makes a restaurant a “Stone Cold  Stunner” was my first thought when I read a recent Eater Maine post featuring the best restaurants of 2015 in various categories?  The way it works is that Eater selects the nominees and then asks readers to rate their picks.  Other categories include Hottest Restaurant, Best Chef, etcetera and etcetera.

In the category Stone Cold Stunner a very curious entry caught my attention. “Eating at the Treehouse really does feel like dining inside a giant, magical treehouse,” it said.

The bar room at The Treehouse

The bar room at The Treehouse

Huh?  What’s the Treehouse?  I must have missed this one in our great world of fine dining in Portland.  After looking at some of the posted photos I realized this was the former Pat’s Café, the local favorite and long-running eatery ( though intermittently closing and reopening numerous times) along the little food world of Steven’s Avenue (Siano’s Pizzeria and Pat’s Meat Market)  otherwise dominated by Deering High School and the Sisters of Mercy convent.

Still, there are so many new restaurants that are now part of our dining universe that could have—and should have–been nominated.  The rarefied rooms of Tempo Dulu come to mind as does the swath of urbane sizzle perfected by Union at The Press Hotel.  At least Evo—truly a stone cold stunner—is at this writing the front runner.

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The chatter on Roustabout–set to open sometime this fall along Washington Avenue (East Bayside’s  neo-hipster iteration of Middle Street’s  restaurant row)–is that it will feature Italian-American cuisine or, as later amended, a modern-day version thereof.  I’ve been looking forward to getting carefully crafted veal Parm, lasagna, spaghetti with Sunday sauce and meatballs.  But now I’m not so sure if that’s what the place will deliver. (Early menus posted on Instagram several months ago showed a menu of rustic Italian dishes.)

Instead, if it’s any indication, the extraordinary meal I had at this fledgling’s latest collaborative popup dinner on Tuesday night at Piccolo (what a collaboration!), veal Parm, et al, may  wait in the wings.

The avid dining scene at the Roustabout popup held at Piccolo; bottom right, co-paprtner Kip Paschal

The avid dining scene at the Roustabout popup held at Piccolo; bottom right, co-partner Kip Paschal

Admittedly it’s untimely to review a restaurant before its front doors have opened for business.  But in the case of Roustabout, they’ve made their proverbial splash already after two popup dinners.  The first was at Tandem Bakery (menu: lasagna, Caesar salad, garlic bread, and tiramisu) which I did not attend, and now the second unwrapping at Piccolo, which I attended.

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After a scintillating dinner at Tempo Dulu Saturday night, one of nearly bacchanalian proportions, everywhere else I ate last week was so tame (though pretty good) by comparison. (Shown on the intro page is mixologist’s Trevin Hutchins Wayang Cocktail)

A trio of desserts at Tempo Dulu

A trio of desserts at Tempo Dulu

Last night’s options, however, were a mixed bag of where to eat since many favorite places are closed on Sundays, a mistake perhaps if restaurateurs are looking for the big dollars from the brigade of tourists now everywhere in Portland.

I considered going to Sur-Lie, but they close down for Sunday dinner after serving their very popular brunch earlier in the day.

Chef Matt Ginn's terrific lamp preparation at Evo enjoyed on earlier occasionis

Chef Matt Ginn’s terrific lamp preparation at Evo enjoyed on earlier occasionis

Ebb and Flow, on teeming Commercial Street, is also closed on Sundays and I haven’t been there in a long while.  Same for Tiqa.  Keeping with the growing Mediterranean theme gaining popularity, I considered stopping at Evo but parking anywhere in the congested Old Port that night was difficult.

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