Wall Street Journal

Is there a revival of Salisbury steak going on in American kitchens?  The dish might not be high on the list of recipe revivalists who savor the nostalgia of old-school American cooking, but it’s been a quiet staple in home kitchens for years.

And there it was in a recent article in the Wall Street Journal’s “Off-Duty” section published on Saturdays.  The food pages–along with the stories on $20,000 watches, $10,000 men’s blazers and other rigors of the serious sybarite—hold a lot of interest for food ideas.  One weekly column that I look at always is “Slow Food Fast,” a feature that focuses on recipes from restaurant chefs around the country.

Salisbury steak with mushroom gravy

Salisbury steak with mushroom gravy

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The success rate of recipes from newspaper food sections, magazines and the internet don’t have a high success rate of enjoyment or deliciousness. Still, I clip many from the New York Times, which are generally reliable and occasionally keepers. Though I’m rarely seduced by recipes in our Portland Press Herald food page, which is more of a food section containing wire copy recipes than those that are home grown.  But I do look forward to the Saturday food section of the Wall Street Journal in the section called “Off-Duty,”which features articles on food, lifestyle, travel, cars and fashion.  It’s the food features especially that tantalize–and one recipe in particular that I have made was so good it’s become a firm family favorite.  (The overall section, however, is more like a fantasy sheet advising where to buy six-figure cars to items of clothing and accessories that cost thousands.)

The adapted recipe  is a robust preparation for country style pork ribs that are marinated in a spice rub overnight and slow-roasted in the oven for several hours.  It hails from chef Damon Menapace of the Philadelphia restaurant Kensington Quarters.  The restaurant is part of a butcher shop that practices whole animal butchery from local farms.  The adjacent restaurant is highly regarded by Philadelphians.  Click here for the link to the food feature.

Slow roasted spice rubbed ribs served with a puree of celery root and potato and sauteed spinach

Slow roasted spice rubbed ribs served with a puree of celery root and potato and sauteed spinach

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