Dishes that were popular and now out of favor are finding their way back into my kitchen.  For a while I was nuts over savory soufflés (never much liked the sweet variety) and for a short time several summers ago I revived the classic quiche to serve to lunch guests on  North Haven.  But most recently my attention has turned to popovers.

Popovers fresh out of the oven.

It’s a bread that’s in a class of its own. They’re really the American version of Yorkshire pudding that relies on an egg and milk batter that rises magically in the oven without any leavening whatsoever.

When I have friends over for dinner I generally include homemade biscuits to go with the meal.  I like classic southern style buttermilk biscuits that I serve fresh out of the oven.

On a timing basis these are a bit of a nuisance–and messy to make–to fit easily into the logistics of preparing a dinner of several courses. But popovers are a cinch to put together at the last minute.  Mix eggs and milk, add melted butter then whisk in flour and salt until very nearly smooth.  It’s OK ifd there are little lumps and air bubbles–they aid in their rising high and might. But a fairly smooth batter works well, too.

You can use muffin tins, but it’s worth investing in popover pans, which are taller and straight sided than the muffin tins.  You must preheat the tins    greased for about 2 minutes before filling.  Or look into finding vintage cast-iron popover or muffin tins.  Lodge offers them on their website.

Preferably use a special popover pan

And when baking, don’t even think of opening the oven door. They will collapse if you do.   If you must check on them turn on the oven light. They should be nicely golden brown, risen  high and look firm.