From Judy Gibson to Boda to Scales and the Luna landscape, Izakaya Minato and last and very the least the sandwich shop Cera, mostly remarkable and a few blemishes.
Luna at the new Canopy Hotel is a winner. It’s everything a sophisticated, sleek urban outpost should be. Interesting bar food and drinks, it’s essentially all about the view and the uber chic interior with its outdoor terrace overlooking the best of downtown Portland by the sea. It makes you wonder whether we’ll ever have residential high rises with views like this from walls of glass overlooking our glorious waterfront? The spate of new condo buildings in Portland is architecture at its worst. What is this trend of multi-faced edifices? (Brick meets siding?) Hobson’s Landing is the worst offender. Who’s paying nearly$1 million for these apartments with terraces that look like tenement fire escapes? The Canopy building a few blocks over, however, is beautifully done, with its chic lobby and concierge entry to the Luna rooftop.
Judy Gibson in South Portland is a weird place. Forget the name or its derivation. There are only two items on the entrée list but many more appetizers. This is not happenstance, but the chef and owner, Chris Wilcox (formerly of the short-lived Velveteen Habit), works solo in the kitchen. The very real staff shortage dilemma has hit this establishment hard. Of our party of four, three of us ordered from the only two entrées on the menu: swordfish and chorizo with beans. I’m not sure how the chef achieved this block of fish shape, but it shouldn’t be repeated: dry and tasteless and not too attractive unless you have a building materials food craving. We sent it back but enjoyed the patty of chorizo over delicious braised beans. And the last but not least category, the dessert menu offers a chocolate pudding and cheese. Still, this might turn out to be a gem in transition.
A friend visiting from New York had heard of Scales and wanted to go, so we went the other night. I’m always happy to be there. The restaurant was as packed as the proverbial sardine yet the kitchen kept pace beautifully The food is some of the best in Portland. The tuna crudo and halibut are showstoppers, both in taste and presentation. The fish stew is as good as it gets with lots of mussels, clams, etc. in a bracing tomato broth. The desserts like butterscotch pudding (an original from Day One ) to berry shortcake all first rate as were the clover leaf rolls. This is Portland’s very finest seafood-centric restaurant. Long Live Scales chef Fred Eliot.
Cera, on the other hand, in the formerly decades-long empty retail space at 1 Monument Square would be more appropriate as a food stall in a bus station. What was a sprawling ground floor space with so much potential now houses a humdrum sandwich shop. It seemed popular the day I was there at lunchtime, but my $15 ham and cheese sandwich on bread described as sour dough was akin to eating desultory slices of ham and cheese housed between two slices of Silvercup. And spare us the the name game that afflicts the sandwiches. Mine was called Peaches the Pig. What, no Sadie the Slut for fried Spam?
Boda, still the reigning maestro of Thai street food, was the perfect pit stop for a light meal. I had my two favorite dishes on the menu, Ma Hor and sticky spicy Thai wings. And the bar is open for dining and seating.
The only real change at Izakaya Minato–the sensational Japanese style trattoria on Washington Street–is that prices have gone up. The popular omakase of 4 to 5 chef’s choice dishes served family style is now $40 per person. Unfortunately it has to be ordered by the whole table–not for sharing.
And on the very sticky night that we were there, the back dining room was stifling. None of the windows were open and no visible AC system. By the end of our very good meal we walked out thankful to be in the open air. The main room does have AC. Still, it’s a winner for terrific food, lots of unusual choices a la carte and don’t forget to order the ice cream.